Originally posted here on UD Journal: FIBER
by Gail Baugh
Cotton is t
he “green”
fiber! Polyester is bad for the environment! Simple, right? Our choices are not
so simple anymore. With broadened awareness of fiber and textile innovations
and of human impact on our environment, we must consider our choices with new
enlightenment. Is it possible that polyester fiber is more eco-friendly than
cotton fiber?
I did a consulting
project last fall comparing the environmental impact of cotton and polyester
fiber production with surprising results. I concluded recycled polyester fiber,
produced from existing polyester products, is more sustainable than cotton
fiber.
Since the mid-1980s,
cotton and polyester fiber production have grown dramatically, so that today,
these two fibers account for more than 80% of all fiber production worldwide.
The quantity of production of these two fibers is nearly equal. Future
production of these fibers will confront new problems. Petroleum production
will continue to decline, and arable land for fiber production may also be
reduced, as the demand for biofuel and food production take priority over
fiber.
There are ongoing
innovations in fiber and textiles. For the past 15+ years, plastic bottles have
been recycled 
into low-grade polyester fiber. The big news is that it is now
possible to recycle polyester fiber, yarn, fabric, and garments into new,
high-quality polyester fiber. Cotton fiber can also be recycled into new yarn
and fabric, but the quality of the fiber is reduced, so the res ulting product
is not as high quality as the original fiber. For both fibers, it is a new
concept that it is now possible to recycle and create new fiber and products
from existing fiber.
Let’s clarify some of
the terms the press and the fashion industry are using to tell customers how
they can help prevent pollution. There are no standard industry definitions to
describe the ecology of the fashion business. The result is confusion regarding
the complex nature of fiber, fabric, and garment production and the impact each
has on the environment and resources.
- First, banish the terms “eco,” “eco-friendly,” and “green.” I’ve used them above to make a point. To another generation, these were defining words, but they do not currently describe what we are
facing in climate change, resource depletion, or full landfills.
- Second, use terms that describe “methods” or “practices” that can be implemented to sustain resources and protect our nvironment. These terms will give the industry choices to act
responsibly. I use the term “sustainable practices” to define choices we can make instead of using terms like “green.”
As I compared cotton
with polyester fiber, I developed a set of questions to determine which fiber
used more sustainable practices:
- Is the fiber easily renewable?
- For natural fiber, is the use of water and land appropriate for the quantity and cost of the fiber produced?
- For manufactured fiber, is the raw material for production easily available and renewable?
- Is the fiber produced using nonpolluting methods?
- For natural fiber, is it grown/raised using nontoxic substances in the air, land, and water?
- For manufactured fiber, is it produced using nontoxic methods or materials that may end up in the air, land, and water?
- Can the products be recycled into new fiber production? Is the recycled fiber the same quality as the original fiber?
In my consulting project
last fall, I compared the production of cotton fiber (both conventionally and
organically grown) to virgin polyester and recycled polyester fiber production.
Using three questions above to compare the environmental impact of each fiber,
I concluded recycled polyester fiber involved more sustainable practices than
any cotton fiber. Here’s why:
Is the fiber easily
renewable?
Cotton Summary — Water
and energy use are high, and the useable fiber is one-third of the total
harvest volume.
Water use: Both conventionally and organically grown
cotton fiber require large quantities of water for a consistent crop yield.
Estimates range from 1,400–3,400 gallons per pound of fiber. (1 lb of fiber =
about two t-shirts.)
Fiber yield per acre: About two-thirds of an acre’s harvest volume is
discarded, leaving one-third of the harvest volume available for textile
production.
Energy use: About 8.6–9.4 Kwh per pound of fiber for both
types of cotton. However, energy used to move water for irrigation (organic and
conventional cotton) and to produce synthetic fertilizers (mostly
petroleum-based products — conventional cotton only) is not considered in this
figure. By adding in this additional energy use, conventional cotton fiber
energy consumption is estimated to be nearly the same as virgin polyester
energy consumption.
Recycled Polyester Fiber
Summary — Low water use. Energy use is high, though one-third less than virgin
fiber. Very little waste in fiber production.
Water use: Water used in recycled fiber production is
almost nil. Even in virgin fiber production, water is used as a coolant, in
very small amounts.
Fiber yield: Compared to raw materials used, which must be
measured by weight. There was some weight loss, but nothing close to the
two-thirds lost in the cotton harvest.
Energy use: About 13.8 Kwh per pound of fiber. Energy used
to produce the original virgin fiber was about 18.3 Kwh per pound of fiber.
Is the fiber produced
using nonpolluting methods?
Cotton Summary —
Synthetic chemicals used continue to pose significant water, soil, and air
pollution threats.
Use of chemicals: Conventionally grown cotton uses synthetic
fertilizers and pesticides (mostly petroleum-based). Pesticides have been
greatly reduced due to genetically modified seed. However, these same GM seeds
seem to require specific synthetic fertilizers and irrigation to have better
yields than other seed. The use of these synthetic fertilizers has polluted the
soil, ground water, nearby streams/lakes, and potential human water supplies.
Emissions from spraying also contaminate surfaces and endanger nearby human
habitation. Mono-crop cultivation reduces the future soil enrichment. Cotton
does not return nutrients to the soil as other fiber crops do naturally.
Organically grown fiber does not use GM seeds, synthetic fertilizers, or
pesticides.
Recycled Polyester Fiber
Summary — Chemicals used for recycled polyester fiber production are recycled
back to produce more fiber.
Use of chemicals: Most or all of the chemicals used to recreate
polyester fiber from the recycled material are then recycled back into more
recycled fiber production — it’s a closed-loop production system. It’s unlikely
that toxic chemicals enter the water supply. There are some emissions but less
exposure to the population than in cotton aerial spraying. In virgin polyester
production, there are more emissions than in recycled fiber production.
However, if this closed-loop system becomes marketable, there may not be as
much need to produce virgin polyester.
Is the fiber recyclable?
Cotton Summary —
Recycled cotton fiber is lower quality than the original fiber.
The physics of breaking
down a cotton fabric into fiber, called “opening,” breaks the cotton fiber into
shorter fibers. When spinning the fiber into yarn, these short fibers create
weak, low-quality yarns. There are on-going experiments to improve the yarn
quality by introducing other fibers. So far, the perfect blend hasn’t been
developed. But the fact remains that recycling cotton products back into fiber
and new products is possible and is ongoing now. Of course, the idea of using
existing cotton fabrics as a resource to create recycled yarn and fabric is a
new concept. The issue remains that cotton fiber quality is reduced when
recycled. Therefore, the recycled fiber may need other nontextile uses to stay
out of the landfill.
I suggest that there be new research efforts to recycle cotton fiber into new
fabrics. There has been extensive research for growing new fiber more
efficiently. I suggest that this same energy also focus on how to use the
existing cotton fiber supply. Also, perhaps there can be new ways to evaluate
cotton fiber. For example, organically grown, the least available fiber, should
be used for the highest quality items; transitional cotton (chemical-free production)
for most production; and finally, recycled cotton fiber in low-quality items.
Recycled Polyester Fiber
Summary — Recycled polyester fiber is the same quality as the original fiber.
This fiber, produced
from existing polyester textile products, meets or exceeds the quality of
virgin polyester. Continuously recycling the enormous quantity of existing
polyester productions into new polyester fiber does not reduce the quality of
the new fiber. Is it possible to nearly eliminate the production of virgin
polyester?
I suggest that we review
Patagonia’s example of collection and recycling of their products, particularly
their partnerships with Teijin and Toray and other suppliers. In my
conversations with my industry colleagues, it is clear that recycling polyester
into new fiber is very costly. However, with the petroleum supply continuing to
decline, it seems this innovation will be become more necessary and cost
effective.
My study led me to
conclude that recycled polyester fiber, produced from existing polyester
fabrics, either post-industrial or post-consumer products, is more sustainable
than conventional or organic cotton fiber. Cotton fiber research has
concentrated on genetic modification to control pests and reduce water use for
new fiber production. The polyester fiber mills, recognizing the shrinking
petroleum supply and the environmental problems of virgin polyester fiber
production, have eclipsed the cotton fiber innovation effort.
We find ourselves in a
world where climate change and oil supplies will force the textile industry to
make different choices. It must reevaluate its raw material sources and the
environmental impact of its production methods. With over 80% of all fiber
production in polyester and cotton fibers, fiber and fabric producers must
diversify raw materials (incorporating existing fiber stock as a raw material
source), lower water and energy consumption, improve soil restoration, and
reduce pollutants in production while maintaining the fiber and fabric supply
we had come to assume was unlimited.
*Please note the findings in this article may be contrary to findings posted by other organizations and studies~Coral Rose
Just like synthetics and natural
fibers learned to co-exist in today’s marketplace – when was the last time you
heard “cotton kills” or any anti-wool comments? – the worlds of eco and
performance are now aligning.
