Sustainable Action Leadership

FTC Proposes Revisions to Green Guides

 

 

 

 

    Today the FTC announced 'Prosposed' Revisions to the Green Guides and is seeking comments on these proposed revisions. Comments must be received by December 10, 2010.

Green Guides Summary of Proposal

• General Environmental Benefit (e.g., “green,” “eco-friendly”)

•       Marketers should not make unqualified general environmental benefit claims. They are difficult, if not impossible, to substantiate. (The current Guides state that marketers can make unqualified claims if they can substantiate all express and implied claims. Otherwise, they should qualify the claim.)

•       Qualifications should be clear and prominent, and should limit the claim to a specific benefit. Marketers should ensure the advertisement’s context does not imply deceptive environmental claims. (In the current Guides, this guidance appears only in examples.)

• Certifications and Seals of Approval

•       This new section emphasizes that certifications/seals are endorsements covered by the Commission’s Endorsement Guides and provides new examples illustrating how those Guides apply to environmental claims (e.g., marketers should disclose material connections to the certifier). (The current Guides address certifications/seals in only one example in the general environmental benefit section. 16 CFR 260.7, Example 5.)

•       Because an unqualified certification/seal (one that does not state the basis for certification) likely conveys a general environmental benefit claim, marketers should use clear and prominent language limiting the claim to particular attribute(s) for which they have substantiation. (This provision highlights guidance already provided in current Guides’ Example 5.)

•       Third-party certification does not eliminate a marketer’s obligation to have substantiation for all conveyed claims.

Other areas covered in the proposed revisions include:

• Degradable
• Compostable
• Ozone-Safe/Ozone-Friendly
• Recyclable
• Free-of AND Non-Toxic

Proposed Guidance for Claims Not Currently Addressed by the Guides

• Made with Renewable Materials
• Made with Renewable Energy
• Carbon Offsets

FTC Proposed Revisions Guide HERE

Climb The Green Ladder

                                        Climb The Green Ladder

Make Your Company and Career More Sustainable

By Shari Aaron and Amy Fetzer

Be sure and pick up a copy of this book, many inspiring stories-including Sams Club and Walmarts GAME CHANGING entry into organics-highlighting the work of Coral Rose. A great framework for taking action now---

FTC Charges Companies with 'Bamboo-zling' Consumers with False Product Claims

Bamboo-based Textiles, Actually Made of Rayon, Are Not Antimicrobial, Made in an Environmentally Friendly Manner, or Biodegradable

Note from Coral Rose: After much hard work and effort, THE FTC is to be congratulated on bringing integrity back to the Eco-Textile Market.

Press Release 8/11/09:

The Federal Trade Commission has charged four sellers of clothing and other textile products with deceptively labeling and advertising these items as made of bamboo fiber, when they are made of rayon. The complaints also charge the companies with making false and unsubstantiated “green” claims that their clothing and textile products are manufactured using an environmentally friendly process, that they retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the bamboo plant, and that they are biodegradable.

“With the tremendous expansion of green claims in today’s marketplace, it is particularly important for the FTC to address deceptive environmental claims, so that consumers can trust that the products they buy have the environmentally friendly attributes they want,” said David Vladeck, Director of the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection. “When companies sell products woven from man-made fibers, such as rayon, it is important that they accurately label and advertise those products – both with respect to the fibers they use and to the qualities those fibers possess.”

FTC ALERT: HAVE YOU BEEN BAMBOOZLED BY BAMBOO FABRICS

FTC BUSINESS ALERT: HOW TO AVOID BAMBOOZLING YOUR CUSTOMERS

For the entire Press Release  Use this FTC Website link

Will Sustainability Feel the Squeeze?

EcoTextileNews Cover Story-November 2008 issue

by Coral Rose

As a result of the U.S. credit crunch and slowing economy, we are now seeing consumers including, ethical consumers become more economically conscious. What remains to be seen is how, if and when this might affect the solid upward trend of organic and sustainable fibers and products.

The Lenzing Group recently released results for the first half of 2008. With noted strong sales increases of 17.4%, they may be the first to acknowledge a shift in the market; “First signs of a weakening global fiber market were perceptible already from the beginning of the second quarter.”  And “The unfavorable economic development that started in the USA clouds expectations for the global economy. The weak dollar and turbulent raw material and energy markets will add further pressure”

In a global economy, U.S. issues are global issues. There are now concerns that the U.S. credit crisis is spreading to Europe and quickly becoming a global economic hurtle.

“In the short run, I hear people saying that we won’t have the resources to address sustainability now that we’re spending a trillion rescuing the financial system.  That seems backwards.  We need to address climate change and resource shortages even more aggressively.  It’s about risk management.  The leaner we are, the less stuff we use to make every product and service, the better prepared we are for whatever comes our way.” Andrew Winston, Founder of Eco-Strategies, and Co-Author Green to Gold.

We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people, around the world rise to unprecedented levels.  As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and social issues as well.

Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some might assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or sustain economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.

“In many ways, the credit crunch is the epitome of non-sustainability. Observing this crisis, you can study the consequences of non-sustainable (economic) actions that - in the end - will affect people, in other words the social/societal dimension of sustainability. For us this development strengthens the conviction that sustainable management is the only way of succeeding in the long run and we will continue to focus on sustainability in all respects." Friedrich Weninger, Vice-President, Lenzing AG. 

In the coming months, we will invariably see organizations implementing mid-course short term adjustments to their long term strategies. Some consider this the opportunity of the 21^st Century; to bring fresh ideas, knowledge, collaborative resources and innovation together in ways that link sustainability, with opportunities for sustainable economic growth. 

David Basson, President of Greensource Organic Company, views sustainability as “the competitive advantage to the slowing economy.”  “Sustainability is front and center on consumer’s minds right now, with high energy costs being a primary focus of the current Presidential elections.”

“We are seeing a tighter economy; consumers are looking for value and shopping at stores that they had not previously frequented.”  He noted a recent trip where he observed many high - end cars in a Walmart parking lot, he sees this as an enormous opportunity for Mass Market retailers.

While the current economic slowdown is not affecting Greensource fiber strategies, David Basson noted that pricing is still a large factor. As a vertical supplier he stressed the importance of long term relationships in his supply chain, as being “key to being able to service his customers through any economic challenges that may occur.”

Brian Powell, Director Sales & Operations-West for YKK USA, is optimistic about sustainability for the YKK brand. While foreseeing a potential definitive economic ‘downturn’ for the next year to eighteen months, “YKK understands that customers are resilient and will support the brands that can differentiate their product selections bringing added value such as sustainable designs/materials.” YKK is looking long term, and will move forward with sustainability. “YKKs culture is rooted in sustainability, we will continue to invest and build products cradle to cradle from recycled and or organic materials because we believe that profitability is synonymous with being sustainable.”

Patagonia is a brand that has successfully created long term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by considering the environmental and social impacts of their supply chain and products. Levi Straus & Co. recently reported that the current economic slowdown “is not hindering any product initiatives or other work LS&CO is doing in this (sustainability) area.”

"Marc Gunther, Senior Writer Fortune Magazine, who writes about the impact of business on society, with a focus on environmental issues, says “that this turmoil in the capital markets can't be good for the sustainability movement.” however, “if nothing else the economic slowdown is a huge distraction. But this will pass, eventually, and then there is no way that companies, and consumers, are going to be able to ignore sustainability"

"Walmart remains committed to Sustainability," according to Walmart spokeswoman Shannon Frederick; “At Walmart, we believe that being environmentally friendly and running a good business go hand in hand during times of economic prosperity as well as during tough economic times like our customers are currently experiencing. We remain committed to our sustainability-focused goals to be supplied 100% by renewable energy, to create zero waste, and to sell products that sustain our resources and the environment. All along we have said that we believe families should have access to affordable environmentally-friendly products. And we're committed to making sure our customers don't have to choose between a more sustainable product and one they can afford.”

How might the economic slowdown affect consumer purchasing behavior? Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.”  Will we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?

As the impacts of a slowing economy are felt, companies that can adapt quickly to the troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain, could lead us to a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.

Economically tough times of the past yield us some insight to forthcoming possible actions; Retailers may sharpen margins and work towards leaner inventories; this will trickle down the supply chain. Brands and retailers may be less willing to make long term commitments at least for the short term until the rising economic tide has passed. Consumers will invariably spend less money while at the same time looking for products with added brand value, and consumers will shift to purchasing practical-no frills basics, this includes upcoming holiday gift purchases.

It is clear that companies who can strategize to thrive during this time, will no doubt be well situated for long term sustainable economic development and growth.

Copyright(C) 2008 Mowbry Communications Limited

Sustainable Textile Definitions and Fiber Glossary

By
Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt-Professor of Textiles Texas State University and
Coral Rose, Founder Eco-Innovations Sustainable Textile Strategies 

© Copyright: 2007 Coral Rose, Eco Innovations, may not be used without prior written authorization from Coral Rose.

Biobased: Biobased processes use naturally occurring organisms or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable methods.

Biobased Fiber: Fiber that is derived from plants and processed using naturally occurring organisms or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable methods.

Certified Humane: The Certified Humane Raised and Handled® program is a certification and labeling program that is the only animal welfare label requiring the humane treatment of farm animals from birth through slaughter.  The goal of the program is to improve the lives of farm animals by driving consumer demand for kinder and more responsible farm animal practices. These animals are allowed to engage in their natural behaviors; raised with sufficient space, shelter and gentle handling to limit stress, given ample fresh water and a healthy diet without added antibiotics or hormones. Note: Not all "humane" label claims are regulated.

Conventionally Produced: An agricultural product that is not certified as having been produced using organic or sustainable methods. Potentially toxic chemicals such as herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers are commonly used in the agricultural processes.

Dyes (Low Impact): Dyes that contain no metals, low salt, and are AZO & dioxazines compound free. Low impact dyes require significantly less water for the dyeing process so there is less polluted runoff than from the conventional dye process. Organic cotton and most other fabrics can be successfully colored with fiber-reactive low impact dyes or all natural dyes such as-insects, clay, vegetables, berries, indigo, and other plant extracts.

Dyes (Fiber-Reactive): A color producing compound which has a molecular group capable of forming a covalent bond with atoms on the textile polymers. This bond is very strong which creates good colorfastness and reduces dye run-off during processing or care.

Ethical Trading: Ethical Trading (or sourcing) is a business model that aims to ensure that acceptable minimum labor standards are met in the supply chains of the whole range of companies products. This process ensures the basic labor rights of the employees are respected.

Fair Trade: Fairtrade certification is a market-based model of international trade that benefits over one million farmers and farm workers in over fifty developing countries.

Fairtrade Mark: A product that is produced and traded under Fair Trade conditions as defined by Fairtrade Labeling Organization (FLO) and certified by FLO or one of its member National Initiatives. The Fair Trade Mark certifies individual products and not whole companies.

Fair Trade Principles: Fair Trade Principles Include; Fair Prices, Fair Labor Conditions, Direct Trade, Democratic and Transparent Organizations, Community Development and Environmental Sustainability.

Genetically Modified Organism (GMO): The terms genetically modified (GM) and genetically engineered (GE) are used interchangeably by the industry, concurrently referring to genetic engineering, also known as recombinant DNA technology. GMO’s are genetically modified organisms, i.e. organisms whose DNA has undergone gene insertion. They are also called GEO’s, for genetically engineered organisms. If a GMO is used for food or to produce GM proteins used in food, the ingested product is called GM food. The term Bioengineering is also used to describe genetic engineering.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM): A pest management strategy that focuses on methods that are least injurious to the environment. Pesticides are applied in such a way that they pose the least possible hazard, and are used as a 'last resort' when other controls are inadequate.

Man-Made Fiber: Man made fibers are fibers that have been created by man using building blocks provided by nature e.g. proteins or cellulose as opposed to fibers made entirely by nature e.g. cotton. Man-Made Fibers include; rayon, modal, cupro etc.

Mercerization: A finishing process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, increased strength and decreased shrinkage.

Naturally grown/all-natural: USDA guidelines state that "natural" meat and poultry products can only undergo minimal processing and cannot contain artificial colors, artificial flavors, preservatives, or other artificial ingredients. The claim "natural" is otherwise unregulated.

Organically Produced Fiber: The raw fiber ingredients, such as cotton, flax or wool, have been certified as "Organic" by a USDA accredited certifying agent in accordance with the National Organic Program (NOP) Standards.

Plant-Based Fibers: Plant fibers are produced by plants, and are a product of agriculture. Cotton, Flax and Hemp are examples of Natural fibers grown in nature.

 

Pre-Consumer Recycled Content: Materials generated by manufacturers and processors, and may consist of scrap, trimmings and other by-products that were never used in the consumer market.

Post-Consumer Recycled Content: Post-consumer material is an end product that has completed its life cycle as a consumer item and would otherwise have been disposed of as a solid waste. Post-consumer materials include recyclables collected in commercial and residential recycling programs, such as office paper, cardboard, aluminum cans, plastics and metals.

Predator Friendly: A farming system that seeks coexistence with native predators rather than their elimination. Ranchers who seek certification as predator friendly agree to minimize contact between stock and predators and use non-lethal control methods for dealing with predators.

Recycled Content: The amount of material by weight collected, separated or otherwise recovered from the solid waste stream for use in the form of raw materials, in the manufacture or assembly of a new package or product. Alternative Definition: An item that contains recovered materials. Recovered materials are wastes that have been diverted from conventional disposal such as landfills for another use. Recovered materials include both pre-consumer and post-consumer wastes.

Regenerated: Regenerated means fiber obtained from natural materials that involve a chemical process to convert the natural material e.g. wood into fiber e.g. viscose. Often referred to as man-made as opposed to synthetic.

Transitional Farming Practices: According to the USDA/NOP standards, farmers must practice organic methods for a ‘transitional time period” of three years on a given piece of land prior to receiving organic certification. "Transitional" means that the farmland is in the 'interim' period of that transition period towards organic certification. During that time all practices are certified organic by certifiers accredited by the National Organic Program.

Synthetics: Fabrics that are not from a renewable resource or natural origins. Synthetics include manmade polyesters and polyvinyl fiber derivatives such as Acrylic, Nylon and Spandex that have been synthesized from petroleum and carbon derivatives.

Fiber Glossary

Abaca (Manila): A vegetable leaf fiber derived from the Musa textiles plant, which is resistant to damage from salt water.

Acetate: A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton, linens and/or wood.

Acrylic: A synthetic fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile.

Alpaca: A hair fiber from the Alpaca animal, a member of the llama family of the South American Andes Mountains.

Alpaca (organic): Free roaming, pasture rotation, distribution of the Alpaca’s manure as fertilizer, fed no hormones, no chemical dipping for ticks and parasites, no chemical ingredients are permitted on the land or animals.

Angora: The hair of the Angora rabbit. The clipped fiber from the Angora rabbit is the softest of rabbit hairs.

Acetate: A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton, linens and/or wood.

Bamboo: As one of the fastest growing plants in the world, bamboo grows to its maximum height in about 3 months and reaches maturity in 3-4 years.  It spreads rapidly across large areas. Because of relatively quick growing time and the ability to be grown without fertilizers or pesticides, the fiber is currently being marketed as an ‘eco-green-sustainable fiber.’ There are also claims that viscose or rayon from bamboo is biodegradable and anti-microbial. There are potential risks associated with using bamboo as a polymer source for rayon since there is currently a lack of transparency in the supply chain. It is not always clear which type of bamboo is used for fiber, where it is grown, how it is cultivated, harvested etc. To date there are no known organic certification of bamboo. 

Linen from Bamboo: A mechanical way of producing bamboo by crushing the woody parts of the bamboo plant and then using natural enzymes to break the bamboo walls into a mushy mass so that the natural fibers can be mechanically combed out and spun into yarn. Very little linen from bamboo is currently manufactured for clothing because it is more labor intensive and costly.

Rayon from Bamboo: The process to make viscose or rayon fiber from bamboo is the same process used to produce viscose/ rayon from any other plant source. The cellulose is extracted from the bamboo, and then the cellulose is mixed with chemicals to convert the plant pulp into textile quality fiber. This process can be very polluting unless it is carefully controlled, which can be influenced by the age and condition of the equipment as well as whether there is any by-product recycling or effluent treatment.

Bamboo is not, in and of itself, recognized as a fiber in the US or EU.  What is referred to as bamboo fiber in the market is actually viscose/rayon.

Note: All viscose or rayon fiber from Bamboo (as a source) that is imported into the US must carry a legal fiber content label declaration of viscose or rayon. All bamboo imported into the EU must use of the legal content declaration viscose; the EU does not permit the use of the word rayon. According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) you must label your garments; "Rayon from Bamboo"

Bast fiber: Strong, soft, woody fibers such as flax, jute, hemp, ramie, and bamboo (if the bamboo is a linen fabric) that is obtained from the inner bark of the stems of certain plants. Linen from Bamboo fabric may fall into this category of Bast fiber.

Cinchilla: A cotton, wool, and even synthetic fabric of sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.

Cupro:  Cuprammonium rayon (Cupro or Cupra) is a regenerated cellulosic fiber made from a cellulose source such as cotton linters (waste fibers too small to spin) using a solution including copper sulfate and aqueous ammonia. A fine lustrous fiber that is stronger than Viscose rayon, Cupro is sometimes trademarked Bemberg and is no longer produced in the US.

Eco-fleece: A nubby, soft fabric made from (PET) recycled soda bottles.

Flax: The Linum usitaatissimum plant, used to produce linen.

Hemp: A bast fiber obtained from the stalk of Cannabis sativa that is very hardy and requires minimal agricultural inputs. It can be grown easily without the use of pesticides. Hemp needs fertilizer and may be grown organically.

Jusi Banana Fabric: A fabric that is generally derived from banana leaves, but may also come from silk worm cocoons.

Jute and Burlap: Fiber used in textiles for interiors, consisting of bundles of fiber held together by gummy pectinaceous substances.

Kapok: A short, lightweight, cotton-like, vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree, commonly used in cushions, mattresses, and life jackets.

Kenaf: A bast fiber obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant, used as a substitute for Jute. Kenaf is also suitable for non-wovens.

Lambswool: Wool that is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months.

Latex: Elastic material derived from the Castilla elastica tree, used to provide stretch to fabrics. Synthetic latex is derived from petrochemicals. Natural latex needs the addition of cross linking agents to render it durable and usable in products.

Lenzing Fibers: There is only one case of manufacturing a regenerated cellulose fiber-where the chemicals used in the process are completely recycled  with a recovery rate of 99.5%, this is known as a closed loop system. The fiber made using this closed looped process is Lenzings TENCEL ® Lyocell. More accurately described Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. TENCEL® Lyocell also carries the Oeko Tex 100 certification and FSC certification (http://www.fsc.org/en/) currently organic standards are not in place for certifying regenerated fibers using trees as a source e.g. Eucalyptus, or Beechwood.  FSC certification for TENCEL® Lyocell is for the forest and for the pulp, they also have been awarded the European-Eco flower label. (www.Lenzing.com)

Latex (blended): Also know as Styrene Butadiene Rubber (SBR), is produced with petrochemicals and doesn't not have the resilience properties that 100% natural latex has. In Europe, anything that has at least 20% natural latex is considered natural.

Linen: A fiber derived from the inside the woody stem of the flax plant.

Lycra: A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber.

Mohair: The fiber from the Angora goat, mohair is mainly produced in South Africa and Texas. The long strong, lustrous fibers are clipped annually and are excellent for use in upholstery and carpeting due to their resilience.

Modal: A regenerated cellulosic fiber derived from beechwood.

Nylon: The first completely synthetic fiber, nylon was developed in 1938.

Nytril: A synthetic fiber, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics.

PLA (Poly Lactic Acid polymer): taken from lactic acid produced by fermenting a sugar source such as corn.

Polyester: A petroleum-based, synthesized fiber introduced and widely used in the early 1950s, often spun with cotton.

Polypropylene (also known as polyolefin and Olefin): A synthetic fiber characterized by its light weight, strength, and abrasion resistance, used in activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery.

Ramie: A woody fiber derived from the stalk of Boehmeria species, grown mainly in China.Raime is naturally white, but also brittle.

Rayon: A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or bamboo vegetable matter.

Silk: A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the worm weaves its cocoon. Cultivated silk comes from silkworms raised in production facilities and the worms are killed before leaving the cocoons as moths in order to prevent damage to the cocoons.

"Peace Silk" is silk that is produced from the fibers of a cocoon cut by the adult silkworms as it exists alive, and is considered a more humane option. "Tussah Silk" known for its tan color, is made from cocoons that are harvested in the wild, often after the moths have left the cocoons.

Sisal: A bast fiber derived from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa.

Soy Fiber:  A fiber with a silky feel, the soy fiber is correctly termed "Azlon from Soy"; these protein fibers are produced using the proteins from soy beans. Azlons can also be made with milk proteins or even chicken feathers.

Soy Sunn: A bast fiber derived from the Crotalaria juncea plant.

Synthetic fibers: Are those in which man has produced the entire operation of the fiber production without allowing nature to manufacture the fiber forming substance (called polymers.). Usually synthetics are made from chemicals derived from non-renewable resources such as coal or oil. The most widely recognized synthetics are polyester and nylon. 

Tencel®: A registered trademark of the Lenzing Fibers Group for Lyocell. More accurately described Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. The source of the cellulose is Eucalyptus.

Tri-acetate: A manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose.

Wool: A protein fiber usually derived from the fleece of sheep or lambs. The term wool can also be generically applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Viscose: Viscose rayon is the oldest and most commonly produced type of rayon. The fiber labeled "rayon" in the US, but however will likely be labeled "viscose" in Europe. Viscose rayon is absorbent but also has poor wet strength and often requires dry cleaning to retain integrity. Other methods of producing rayon include High Wet Modulus (Modal) which improves wet strength and Cupro.

 

© Copyright: 2007 Coral Rose, Eco Innovations, may not be used without prior written authorization from Coral Rose.

Will an Economic Slowdown Affect Organic Consumer Purchasing Behavior?

The sales volume of organic products, which had been growing at 20 percent a year in recent years, slowed to a much lower growth rate in the last few months, according to the Nielsen Company, a market research firm.

“Organics continue to grow and outpace many categories,” the Nielsen Company concluded in an October report. “However, recent weeks are showing slower growths, possibly a start of an organics growth plateau.”

For the four-week period that ended Oct. 4, the volume of organic products sold rose just 4 percent compared with the same period a year earlier.

If the slowdown continues, it could have broad implications beyond the organic industry, whose success spawned a growing number of products with values-based marketing claims, from fair trade coffee to hormone-free beef to humanely raised chickens. Nearly all of them command a premium price.

While a group of core customers considers organic or locally produced products a top priority, the growth of recent years was driven by a far larger group of less committed customers. The weak economy is prompting many of them to choose which marketing claim, if any, is really important to them.

Among organic products, those marketed to children will probably continue to thrive because they appeal to parents’ concerns about health, said Laurie Demeritt, the president and chief operating officer of the Hartman Group, a market research firm for the health and wellness industry. But products that do not have as much perceived benefit, like processed foods for adults, may struggle.

Theresa Marquez, the chief marketing executive for Organic Valley, which sells primarily dairy products, said she was not worried about core customers because they were so committed to buying organic.

“I’m not sure the periphery — those that purchase perhaps only four or so times a month — will break the industry,” she said in an e-mail conversation after the convention. “But I am concerned that those periphery customers are important to the growth of the industry and without them, organic growth is sure to go flat.”

Organic Valley’s sales have slowed in the last four months, in part because of price increases, company officials said.

Robert Atallah, the owner of Cedarlane Foods, which makes organic and natural frozen meals, said his business had slowed in the last 18 months, a problem he attributed to increased competition and the economy. He said that he believed a newly developed line of products could help sales but cannot convince buyers for grocery chains to commit.

“The morale of buyers is so low, they don’t want to buy anything,” he said. “It’s a sick feeling all the way around. People don’t know if their job is going to be there.”

But others said they had not yet noticed a slowdown and were optimistic that sales would remain steady — or possibly improve — as consumers ate fewer meals in restaurants and devoted more time to cooking. Some store-brand manufacturers said they were thriving as consumers looked for cheaper alternatives to branded products.

Some others said they were cutting back on organic food to save money.Joni Heard, a 29-year-old mother of two who lives in central Florida, said that in the past she would buy organic milk, cheese and produce but had cut back because it was too expensive. “I’m a stay-at-home mom and my husband — you never know if he’s going to be laid off,” she said in an interview, explaining that her husband works in construction. “I can’t justify spending $2 or $3 more for a single item.”

The shift to “NATURAL”

The Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.” *Note: there is not a USDA Standard with third party certification in place for products with a “Natural” identifier as there is for and “Organic” label.

Will we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?

Portions originally posted Here by The New York Times;
Budgets Squeezed, Some Families Bypass Organics

By ANDREW MARTIN

 

Consumers Think Sustainability is Here to Stay

The number of U.S. consumers who think sustainability is here to stay outnumbers those who don’t by two-to-one, according to Natural Marketing Institute’s LOHAS Consumer Trends Database.

And since consumers are expecting sustainability to stay, businesses should be prepared to meet those expectations, according to NMI. This has major implications for businesses across all market sectors, which will need to have long-term plans in place to address sustainability.

“Furthermore, those first to adapt and succeed in their industry will have first-mover advantage,” according to NMI. “There is no time like the present to evaluate a company’s impact and develop short-term and long-term goals for addressing your impact. Effective CSR encompasses more than just good PR. Companies must be actively practicing and promoting their efforts in terms of how they develop, manufacture, transport, sell products and services - and do so in a way which resonates with buyers.”
 

How Green Is Your Wardrobe?

Orginal Post on EcoTextile News click here

MATLOCK – [08.07.08] A new on-line calculator which allows consumers to calculate the environmental impact of their clothing has been launched by Colour Connections Ltd – the same company which developed the ground-breaking textile eco-metrics (click here or see this blogs 7.18.08 post) for manufacturers and clothing brands.

The new ‘Household Textile Environmental Impact Calculator’ differs from textile eco-metrics in that it's aimed specifically at shoppers instead of the textile industry. Using a series of drop-down menus and a set of complex mathematics hidden behind its user friendly interface allows consumers to assess the environmental impact of the choices they make when they buy, care and dispose of household textiles and clothing.

All users have to do is choose from a list of common clothing items in terms of how many items they buy and how they are disposed in a twelve month period. Then users are asked how these items are washed, dried and ironed in a typical week. After pressing the 'calculate' button, users score a rating in terms of 'Environmental Damage Units' or EDU’s. The EDU value is an environmental measure which is scientifically arrived at based on water and energy use, the use of non-renewable resources and pollution.

The overall EDU score for each item of clothing depends on each individual consumer’s buying preferences, how they care for their garments and ultimately how they dispose of them.

“You may be surprised at how much impact your personal or family clothing preferences have on the environment,” said Phil Patterson, managing director of Colour Connections. “Doing one fewer tumble drying cycle per week saves 170 EDU’s, which is enough to make the fabric for 50 pairs of underpants.”

CLICK HERE to see how your wardrobe stacks up.

Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications Ltd 

Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)

USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural products through its
National Organic Program (NOP) regulation, 7 CFR Part 205.(LINK HERE)

● Raw natural fibers, such as cotton, wool ,flax, etc., are agricultural products and
are covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Off-farm treatment of
raw organic fibers are not covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. 

● Although the NOP has no specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing
standards, it may be possible for fi bers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards
to be processed and manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP
standards. 

Labeling for Certified Handling/Processing/ Manufacturing Operations 

Only textile products certified to the NOP production AND processing standards are eligible to be labeled
“100 percent organic” and “organic.” 

100 percent organic 

● 100 percent organic fiber content.

● Only organic processing aids.

● USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to certified products only.

● All operations producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be
certified. 

Organic 

● Minimum of 95 percent organic fiber content.

● 5 percent nonorganic substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP regulation.

● No non-organic fibers.

● USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to certified products only.

● All operations producing, handling, processing,and manufacturing the final product must be certified. 

Other Uses of the Word “Organic” in Textile Product Labeling 

The NOP does not restrict the use of the term “made with organic …” in the labeling of textile products to
only those products manufactured in certified organic facilities or containing a minimum of 70 percent
organic fibers. However, all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced and
certified to NOP standards. 

Labels on textile products from non-certified handling/processing/manufacturing operations: 

● May identify specific fibers as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.

● May state the percentage of organic fibers contained in the final product.

● May not use the USDA Organic seal.

● May not imply or lead the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic 

Other Labeling Laws 

● NOP label requirements are in addition to those required by the Federal Trade
Commission’s (FTC) Textile and Wool Acts.

● Information on FTC labeling requirements for textiles can be found at the following websites:

Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements of The Textile and Wool Acts

Calling it Cotton

Web Tool Calculates Textile Eco-Footprint

Originally Posted Here on Eco Textile News

PONTEFRACT – [07.18.08] Textile eco-metrics, the world’s first tool for simple assessment of the environmental impacts of textile production and use has been now been launched by Colour Connections in conjunction with Ecotextile News. It is now available to access directly from this web-site.

This revolutionary new web-based calculator takes into account the entire production route from fibre selection through to fabric production to dyeing and finishing. It also compares the production impacts of different washing and drying methods over the lifetime of a garment by consumers.

Using cleverly derived Environmental Damage Units (EDU’s) the impact of different fibres, fabric weights and dyeing and finishing methods can be compared in terms of water impact, energy use, use of non-renewable resources and pollution.

A simple colour coded report is produced that enables users to see at a glance where a particular product has most impact and highlights the areas that require attention or, conversely, where products and methods are good. The easy-to-read colour coded grid conceals the complex mathematics involved but an overall indicative EDU score enables easy comparisons between different textiles to be made.

Textile eco-metrics also provides simple, easy to understand explanations of what is good or bad about a particular fibre, fabric or process so it can be used to increase the levels of understanding about what is fact and what is ‘greenwash’ in the world of textiles and clothing.

Of particular interest to those committed to a sustainable textile industry are the Sub-Optimal Durability Units (SODU’s) that are calculated to show just how bad low durability clothing merchandise is for the environment. For example a product that has a production impact of 10 EDU’s and lasts for 50 domestic washes is far better than a similar garment that an impact of five production EDU’s but only lasts five washes – the latter garment would need to replaced nine times in the same lifetime so a penalty of 45 EDU’s would be awarded.

Textile Eco-metrics will be developed on an on-going basis and is available for an annual subscription.

To see how to use Eco-Metrics CLICK HERE.

CLICK HERE for more information on how to subscribe to EcoTextile News.

Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications Ltd