by Coral Rose
The terms “eco, green, sustainable and organic” are being used openly and interchangeably in the market with the term ‘certified organic.’ Inappropriate use of environmental labels has caused confusion in the apparel market. To be sold in the US as certified organic cotton, all textile fiber must be certified organic in accordance with the USDA NOP (National Organic Program) program (or) for Europe the EU organic certifications EU 2092/91. Currently that is the legal requirement for certified organic cotton.
This is NOT business as usual, nor
is this a trend, this is an entirely new business model, one where you need to
know your supply chain clear back to the farm or fiber production facility.
Where does your fiber come from? What is the country of origin? Bottom line:
There needs to be Supply Chain Transparency back to the farmer and to the seed.
One reason that there is confusion
in the apparel market is that the NOP Organic Standards were originally created
for food.
So why is cotton included? The USDA considers cotton a food
product until it leaves the gin. Upon completion of the ginning process,
where the seed and fiber are separated, cotton consists of 60% seed and 40%
fiber. Cotton seed enters the food chain. Cottonseed oil is found in many
processed snack foods, among them chips, cookies, crackers and salad dressings.
Cotton seed is fed to livestock, dairy cattle and poultry as a high protein
supplement. The remaining fiber is baled and shipped to textile mills to be
spun into yarn for fabric.
The Global Organic Textile Standards
(GOTS)has been submitted for trademark rights. GOTS has offered the world the first globally accepted standard for
certified organic fibers. (As early as Fall 2008, we may see the USDA NOP adopt
GOTS as the USDA NOP official standard for fiber. )
The GOTS standard for organic
textiles covers the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging,
labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibres. The
final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns,
fabrics and clothes.
“The aim of the standard is to
define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of
the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible
manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the
end consumer.” The standard provides for a subdivision into two label-grades. “
according to GOTS.
a) "organic" or "organic
in conversion" 95% or more of the fibres must be of
certified organic (or in conversion) origin. The remaining balance up to 5% may
be made of non-organic fibres including defined regenerated and synthetic
fibres. Blending (= mixing the same fibre in organic and conventional quality
in one product) is not permitted.
b) "made with x % organic
materials" or " made with x % organic in conversion materials" 70% - 95% or more of the fibres must be of certified
organic (or in conversion) origin. The remaining balance up to 30% may be made
of non-organic fibres. Regenerated and synthetic fibres are limited to 10%
(resp. 25% in the US). Again blending is not permitted.
There is concern in the organic food
and apparel market with standards that seek to certify blends and or low
percentages of organic fiber content. If USDA/NOP recognizes GOTS as the US
Standard for apparel, these minimal standards could go away as quickly as they
appeared.
Your label claims CANNOT be
deceptive according to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) Environmental
Marketing Guides.
“It is deceptive to misrepresent, directly or
by implication, that a product, package or service offers a general
environmental benefit.” Additionally, claims should be adequately qualified to
avoid consumer deception.
FTC is an Independent Agency,
appointed by the President. Its goal is to enforce consumer protection and
antitrust laws AND the FTC has jurisdiction over environmental claims and
Textile Labeling.
FTC’s GREEN GUIDES(link)
The Green Guides do not set
performance standards or grant eco-labels but require that labels and
communications:
- Tell the truth
- Have substantiation
- Are based on consumer perceptions and require claims controls so they are not misleading
- Have clear qualifications & disclosures
- Specify whether claims apply to the product, the package, or both
- Do no overstate the product attributes
General Environmental Claims:
- Qualify: identify specific "green" attribute
- Third Party Certifications must be independent from advertiser
- Certification
does not insulate advertiser - Avoid broad claims unless it is based on
LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) and sustainable product standard addressing
multiple environmental impacts
across the supply chain and social equity.
Symbols
- Avoid unqualified symbols, e.g. generic recyclable
- Use disclosures to qualify claims. Recyclable e.g. for this bottle may not exist in your area.
Bottom line; Before you label-Educate yourself!!!!!!
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