Sustainable Action Leadership

Are You Being Bamboozled? A Guide on How to Avoid Mislabeling

This Brochure is a Collaboration of:

Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt, Texas State University‐San Marcos
and
Coral Rose, Eco‐Innovations Sustainable Textile Services

How to Avoid Mislabeling of Bamboo Textile Products

Download here: Bamboo.FTC.How.To.Avoid.Mislabeling.10.09

You Can Have Your Bamboo and Eat it Too--"Rayon Made From Organic Bamboo"

by Coral Rose

The FTC recently charged four textile companies with making false unsubstantiated “green” claims. According to the FTC these companies were deceptively labeling and advertising textile related items as made of ‘bamboo’ fiber, when they are made of rayon, and must legally be labeled "Rayon made from bamboo."

The question has again been raised......

"Can bamboo(technically "Rayon from bamboo") textiles be certified organic to the USDA National Organic Program (NOP)?" 

The last time this question was posed a few years ago, I was informed that bamboo was considered a product of a forest and therefore could possibly be eligible for FSC Certification.

Given the existing controversy that is still running wild in the textile market, I decided to again reach out to the USDA NOP for clarification. I received the following response:

According to Joan Shaffer, Office of Public Affairs at the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) “Bamboo” as a raw material for textiles is available for Organic Certification according to the USDA NOP.

“The organic standards cover agricultural products from livestock and crop.  Bamboo is a crop.”  Please see the explanations for textiles in this (Labeling of Textiles Under National Organic Program (NOP) Regulations) fact sheet.” 

“Below is an excerpt from the “Preamble” on “nonedible fibers products” in the organic standards.” 

“(6) Nonedible Fibers Products in the NOP. Some commenters asked the NOP to clarify the certification status of fibers such as cotton and flax. The final rule allows for certification of organically produced fibers such as cotton and flax. However, the processing of these fibers is not covered by the final rule. Therefore, goods that utilize organic fibers in their manufacture may only be labeled as a "made with..." product; e.g., a cotton shirt labeled "made with organic cotton."   USDA-AMS Office of Public Affairs

 The proper labeling in accordance with the FTC would be:

“Rayon(or Viscose) made from organic bamboo”

*Note that it is the bamboo itself as the CROP (raw material) that is allowed to be certified as organic to the USDA NOP Standard, and that the processing of the fiber and or garment is NOT considered in the process of certification to the USDA NOP Standard.

While this may sound a bit absurd (and about as clean as coal) that rayon can indeed be considered an organic textile, it is the bamboo itself as the raw material that is being certified as organic.

***See August 1, 2009 Post below: Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)

First Clean Coal, Now Organic Bamboo? by Coral Rose

FTC Mulches False Bamboo Textile Claims by Coral Rose

FTC Charges Companies with 'Bamboo-zling' Consumers with False Product Claims

Bamboo-based Textiles, Actually Made of Rayon, Are Not Antimicrobial, Made in an Environmentally Friendly Manner, or Biodegradable

Note from Coral Rose: After much hard work and effort, THE FTC is to be congratulated on bringing integrity back to the Eco-Textile Market.

Press Release 8/11/09:

The Federal Trade Commission has charged four sellers of clothing and other textile products with deceptively labeling and advertising these items as made of bamboo fiber, when they are made of rayon. The complaints also charge the companies with making false and unsubstantiated “green” claims that their clothing and textile products are manufactured using an environmentally friendly process, that they retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the bamboo plant, and that they are biodegradable.

“With the tremendous expansion of green claims in today’s marketplace, it is particularly important for the FTC to address deceptive environmental claims, so that consumers can trust that the products they buy have the environmentally friendly attributes they want,” said David Vladeck, Director of the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection. “When companies sell products woven from man-made fibers, such as rayon, it is important that they accurately label and advertise those products – both with respect to the fibers they use and to the qualities those fibers possess.”

FTC ALERT: HAVE YOU BEEN BAMBOOZLED BY BAMBOO FABRICS

FTC BUSINESS ALERT: HOW TO AVOID BAMBOOZLING YOUR CUSTOMERS

For the entire Press Release  Use this FTC Website link

Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)

Original Post 8.08

Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)

USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural products through its
National Organic Program (NOP) regulation, 7 CFR Part 205.(LINK HERE)

● Raw natural fibers, such as cotton, wool ,flax, etc., are agricultural products and
are covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Off-farm treatment of
raw organic fibers are not covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. 

● Although the NOP has no specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing
standards, it may be possible for fi bers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards
to be processed and manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP
standards. 

Labeling for Certified Handling/Processing/ Manufacturing Operations 

Only textile products certified to the NOP production AND processing standards are eligible to be labeled
“100 percent organic” and “organic.” 

100 percent organic 

● 100 percent organic fiber content.

● Only organic processing aids.

● USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to certified products only.

● All operations producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be
certified. 

Organic 

● Minimum of 95 percent organic fiber content.

● 5 percent nonorganic substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP regulation.

● No non-organic fibers.

● USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to certified products only.

● All operations producing, handling, processing,and manufacturing the final product must be certified. 

Other Uses of the Word “Organic” in Textile Product Labeling 

The NOP does not restrict the use of the term “made with organic …” in the labeling of textile products to
only those products manufactured in certified organic facilities or containing a minimum of 70 percent
organic fibers. However, all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced and
certified to NOP standards. 

Labels on textile products from non-certified handling/processing/manufacturing operations: 

● May identify specific fibers as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.

● May state the percentage of organic fibers contained in the final product.

● May not use the USDA Organic seal.

● May not imply or lead the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic 

Other Labeling Laws 

● NOP label requirements are in addition to those required by the Federal Trade
Commission’s (FTC) Textile and Wool Acts.

● Information on FTC labeling requirements for textiles can be found at the following websites:

Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements of The Textile and Wool Acts

Calling it Cotton

USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural products through its
National Organic Program (NOP) regulation, 7 CFR Part 205.(LINK HERE)

● Raw natural fibers, such as cotton, wool ,flax, etc., are agricultural products and
are covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Off-farm treatment of
raw organic fibers are not covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. 

● Although the NOP has no specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing
standards, it may be possible for fi bers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards
to be processed and manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP
standards. 

Labeling for Certified Handling/Processing/ Manufacturing Operations 

Only textile products certified to the NOP production AND processing standards are eligible to be labeled
“100 percent organic” and “organic.” 

100 percent organic 

● 100 percent organic fiber content.

● Only organic processing aids.

● USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to certified products only.

● All operations producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be
certified. 

Organic 

● Minimum of 95 percent organic fiber content.

● 5 percent nonorganic substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP regulation.

● No non-organic fibers.

● USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to certified products only.

● All operations producing, handling, processing,and manufacturing the final product must be certified. 

Other Uses of the Word “Organic” in Textile Product Labeling 

The NOP does not restrict the use of the term “made with organic …” in the labeling of textile products to
only those products manufactured in certified organic facilities or containing a minimum of 70 percent
organic fibers. However, all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced and
certified to NOP standards. 

Labels on textile products from non-certified handling/processing/manufacturing operations: 

● May identify specific fibers as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.

● May state the percentage of organic fibers contained in the final product.

● May not use the USDA Organic seal.

● May not imply or lead the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic 

Other Labeling Laws 

● NOP label requirements are in addition to those required by the Federal Trade
Commission’s (FTC) Textile and Wool Acts.

● Information on FTC labeling requirements for textiles can be found at the following websites:

Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements of The Textile and Wool Acts

Calling it Cotton

Better cotton threading its way towards global markets

Gland, Switzerland: The first batch of sustainable cotton – to be produced with a fraction of the water and pesticide use of traditional cotton cultivation – is expected to reach global markets starting next year.

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a partnership between major corporations such as Adidas, IKEA, Gap, and H&M, and NGOs such as WWF, recently created a new set of criteria to make cotton cultivation more economically, environmentally, and socially sustainable.

The Better Cotton System outlines mechanisms to mitigate the negative impacts of one of the world’s most water and chemical crops, which is often grown in semi-arid and water scarce areas.

Cotton cultivation covers more than 2.4 percent of global arable land, involving about 30 million farmers. Cotton is produced in more than 65 countries worldwide, mainly in the developing world.

“The Better Cotton Initiative aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it and better for the environment it grows in” said Walter Wagner, WWF Switzerland, newly elected vice-chair of the BCI.

Pilot projects are slated to test the BCI system in Pakistan, India, Africa, and Brazil to provide sustainable cotton to textile makers and buyers starting next year. For example, the initiative aims to reduce water and pesticide use.

Projects underway in Pakistan and India led by WWF and IKEA have led to 75 percent reduction in water and pesticide use, while increase the net revenue to cotton producers by 70 percent.

“BCI endeavors to initiate global change in the mass market, with long-term benefits for the environment, farmers and other people dependent on cotton for their livelihood,” according to its website.

Original post here: World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Panda.org

Link here: Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)

The (r)evolution of textiles:

From the Industrial Revolution to the Chemical Revolution to the
Green Revolution.

Check out Harmony Art's the (r)evolution of textiles.

the (r)evolution of textiles:

 
 

Sustainability Leadership: An Interview with Coral Rose

You can find the original interview here; "Focus Sustainability" 2008; a comprehensive report by Lenzing Fibers.

Coral Rose, expert on Sustainable Textiles, talks about her views on sustainability in the 21st century. 

 What do you think about Lenzing’s achievements in sustainable management
and which aspects do you consider to be most essential according to your experience? 

Sustainable innovation is the key economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets or “rules of engagement” for any sustainable business.
Lenzing offers the fiber market what few, if any, producers of fibers do, and that is both sustainable innovation and full transparency of the supply chain. One of the most important global issues is “what is the source of our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced?” This is a total mindset shift at the textile design level. 

Do you think that the communication of the Lenzing Botanic Principles has been
well received by the important players in the market? 

Lenzing’s Botanic Principles lead us back to the source of life on the planet, back to nature. They enhance the education of the market by applying these simple, yet easy to- understand principles. Botanic Principles connect the lifecycle of nature and sustainability to fiber innovation. Nature and sustainability are not separable. 

I strongly believe Lenzing’s products are a key component to any sustainable fiber strategy, when considering all the environmental impacts associated with fiber growing and production. Lenzing Modal® and TENCEL ® come out on top – practical, applicable and economically viable to integrate into fiber strategies of most global organizations. 

In which segments of the industry do you feel Lenzing innovations have been most visible? 

Lenzing places a high priority not only on supply chain transparency and disclosure, but also continual improvement and ongoing research and improvements of their products. Their innovations are especially vital to the activewear market as options to replace high-performance petrol based products, while maintaining quality fiber performance and economical viability. Many activewear brands are also struggling with finding sustainable options for organic cotton as their customers require garments that have excellent moisture management. Lenzing’s fibers offer the market sustainable fiber performance solutions.

Apart from the more product related aspects, how would you rate the importance of the more general social and environmental issues in the supply chain? Are customers prepared to pay premiums for outstanding performance in these fields? 

Fundamentally, social and environmental issues are business issues, and this concept is part of the core foundational principles at Lenzing. “People, Planet, Profit” is often used to describe the triple bottom line and the goal of sustainability. The fact is that they are all connected and should be thought of in one globally accepted conversation. Lenzing does just that. 

Human rights and environmental stewardship are inextricably linked. Everybody has the right to a secure, healthy and ecologically sound environment. We have also seen a huge market shift to fair trade products, from coffee to cotton, in the last few years. This is a positive sign that the brands and consumers are willing to pay extra to ensure that farmers and producers are able to live sustainably.

Lenzing sets very high benchmarks, where other fiber producers should aspire to. It is a key valued fiber partner and regards partnerships with the market to be very important. I recently toured the Modal facility in Lenzing, Austria, and was impressed with the closed loop system in place and accountability for all inputs and outputs. 

note; Believe it or not-that is a picture (above) of the Lenzing facility in Lenzing, Austria--right out of the "Sound of Music" in fact the Sound of Music was filmed on the bluff this picture was taken from!!!!!

“Sustainable innovation is the key economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets for any sustainable business.” Coral Rose

Cradle to Cradle offers certificate for textiles

Original post here on EcoTextileNews: Cradle to Cradle offers new ingredient certificate

CHARLOTTESVILLE – [04.02.09] Cradle to Cradle, the ecological certificate developed by the McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry (MBDC) consultancy has introduced a new ‘approved ingredient’ element to its programme, which can be applicable to textiles and clothing.

The new Approved Ingredient certification programme assesses the sustainability of product ingredients for human and environmental health, as well as their recyclability or compostability. “The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient certification makes it easier at the design stage to create ecologically-intelligent products by choosing materials that meet key sustainability criteria for material health and material reutilisation” said Jay Bolus, Vice President of Technical Operations for MBDC. “We invite material manufacturers to gain this designation and let their customers know about this as they qualify.”

The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient designation is the second certification program developed by MBDC, which initially set out to identify end-products that met a series of environmental criteria with four levels of attainment, each requiring a higher achievement: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum.

MBDC‘s Ingredient certification is open to all manufacturers that make chemicals, materials or substances used in finished goods. Material assessments are conducted by an in-house team of scientists and project managers.

Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications

Will Sustainability Feel the Squeeze?

EcoTextileNews Cover Story-November 2008 issue

by Coral Rose

As a result of the U.S. credit crunch and slowing economy, we are now seeing consumers including, ethical consumers become more economically conscious. What remains to be seen is how, if and when this might affect the solid upward trend of organic and sustainable fibers and products.

The Lenzing Group recently released results for the first half of 2008. With noted strong sales increases of 17.4%, they may be the first to acknowledge a shift in the market; “First signs of a weakening global fiber market were perceptible already from the beginning of the second quarter.”  And “The unfavorable economic development that started in the USA clouds expectations for the global economy. The weak dollar and turbulent raw material and energy markets will add further pressure”

In a global economy, U.S. issues are global issues. There are now concerns that the U.S. credit crisis is spreading to Europe and quickly becoming a global economic hurtle.

“In the short run, I hear people saying that we won’t have the resources to address sustainability now that we’re spending a trillion rescuing the financial system.  That seems backwards.  We need to address climate change and resource shortages even more aggressively.  It’s about risk management.  The leaner we are, the less stuff we use to make every product and service, the better prepared we are for whatever comes our way.” Andrew Winston, Founder of Eco-Strategies, and Co-Author Green to Gold.

We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people, around the world rise to unprecedented levels.  As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and social issues as well.

Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some might assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or sustain economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.

“In many ways, the credit crunch is the epitome of non-sustainability. Observing this crisis, you can study the consequences of non-sustainable (economic) actions that - in the end - will affect people, in other words the social/societal dimension of sustainability. For us this development strengthens the conviction that sustainable management is the only way of succeeding in the long run and we will continue to focus on sustainability in all respects." Friedrich Weninger, Vice-President, Lenzing AG. 

In the coming months, we will invariably see organizations implementing mid-course short term adjustments to their long term strategies. Some consider this the opportunity of the 21^st Century; to bring fresh ideas, knowledge, collaborative resources and innovation together in ways that link sustainability, with opportunities for sustainable economic growth. 

David Basson, President of Greensource Organic Company, views sustainability as “the competitive advantage to the slowing economy.”  “Sustainability is front and center on consumer’s minds right now, with high energy costs being a primary focus of the current Presidential elections.”

“We are seeing a tighter economy; consumers are looking for value and shopping at stores that they had not previously frequented.”  He noted a recent trip where he observed many high - end cars in a Walmart parking lot, he sees this as an enormous opportunity for Mass Market retailers.

While the current economic slowdown is not affecting Greensource fiber strategies, David Basson noted that pricing is still a large factor. As a vertical supplier he stressed the importance of long term relationships in his supply chain, as being “key to being able to service his customers through any economic challenges that may occur.”

Brian Powell, Director Sales & Operations-West for YKK USA, is optimistic about sustainability for the YKK brand. While foreseeing a potential definitive economic ‘downturn’ for the next year to eighteen months, “YKK understands that customers are resilient and will support the brands that can differentiate their product selections bringing added value such as sustainable designs/materials.” YKK is looking long term, and will move forward with sustainability. “YKKs culture is rooted in sustainability, we will continue to invest and build products cradle to cradle from recycled and or organic materials because we believe that profitability is synonymous with being sustainable.”

Patagonia is a brand that has successfully created long term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by considering the environmental and social impacts of their supply chain and products. Levi Straus & Co. recently reported that the current economic slowdown “is not hindering any product initiatives or other work LS&CO is doing in this (sustainability) area.”

"Marc Gunther, Senior Writer Fortune Magazine, who writes about the impact of business on society, with a focus on environmental issues, says “that this turmoil in the capital markets can't be good for the sustainability movement.” however, “if nothing else the economic slowdown is a huge distraction. But this will pass, eventually, and then there is no way that companies, and consumers, are going to be able to ignore sustainability"

"Walmart remains committed to Sustainability," according to Walmart spokeswoman Shannon Frederick; “At Walmart, we believe that being environmentally friendly and running a good business go hand in hand during times of economic prosperity as well as during tough economic times like our customers are currently experiencing. We remain committed to our sustainability-focused goals to be supplied 100% by renewable energy, to create zero waste, and to sell products that sustain our resources and the environment. All along we have said that we believe families should have access to affordable environmentally-friendly products. And we're committed to making sure our customers don't have to choose between a more sustainable product and one they can afford.”

How might the economic slowdown affect consumer purchasing behavior? Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.”  Will we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?

As the impacts of a slowing economy are felt, companies that can adapt quickly to the troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain, could lead us to a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.

Economically tough times of the past yield us some insight to forthcoming possible actions; Retailers may sharpen margins and work towards leaner inventories; this will trickle down the supply chain. Brands and retailers may be less willing to make long term commitments at least for the short term until the rising economic tide has passed. Consumers will invariably spend less money while at the same time looking for products with added brand value, and consumers will shift to purchasing practical-no frills basics, this includes upcoming holiday gift purchases.

It is clear that companies who can strategize to thrive during this time, will no doubt be well situated for long term sustainable economic development and growth.

Copyright(C) 2008 Mowbry Communications Limited

Sustainable Textile Definitions and Fiber Glossary

By
Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt-Professor of Textiles Texas State University and
Coral Rose, Founder Eco-Innovations Sustainable Textile Strategies

Biobased: Biobased processes use naturally occurring organisms or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable methods.

Biobased Fiber: Fiber that is derived from plants and processed using naturally occurring organisms or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable methods.

Certified Humane: The Certified Humane Raised and Handled® program is a certification and labeling program that is the only animal welfare label requiring the humane treatment of farm animals from birth through slaughter.  The goal of the program is to improve the lives of farm animals by driving consumer demand for kinder and more responsible farm animal practices. These animals are allowed to engage in their natural behaviors; raised with sufficient space, shelter and gentle handling to limit stress, given ample fresh water and a healthy diet without added antibiotics or hormones. Note: Not all "humane" label claims are regulated.

Conventionally Produced: An agricultural product that is not certified as having been produced using organic or sustainable methods. Potentially toxic chemicals such as herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers are commonly used in the agricultural processes.

Dyes (Low Impact): Dyes that contain no metals, low salt, and are AZO & dioxazines compound free. Low impact dyes require significantly less water for the dyeing process so there is less polluted runoff than from the conventional dye process. Organic cotton and most other fabrics can be successfully colored with fiber-reactive low impact dyes or all natural dyes such as-insects, clay, vegetables, berries, indigo, and other plant extracts.

Dyes (Fiber-Reactive): A color producing compound which has a molecular group capable of forming a covalent bond with atoms on the textile polymers. This bond is very strong which creates good colorfastness and reduces dye run-off during processing or care.

Ethical Trading: Ethical Trading (or sourcing) is a business model that aims to ensure that acceptable minimum labor standards are met in the supply chains of the whole range of companies products. This process ensures the basic labor rights of the employees are respected.

Fair Trade: Fairtrade certification is a market-based model of international trade that benefits over one million farmers and farm workers in over fifty developing countries.

Fairtrade Mark: A product that is produced and traded under Fair Trade conditions as defined by Fairtrade Labeling Organization (FLO) and certified by FLO or one of its member National Initiatives. The Fair Trade Mark certifies individual products and not whole companies.

Fair Trade Principles: Fair Trade Principles Include; Fair Prices, Fair Labor Conditions, Direct Trade, Democratic and Transparent Organizations, Community Development and Environmental Sustainability.

Genetically Modified Organism (GMO): The terms genetically modified (GM) and genetically engineered (GE) are used interchangeably by the industry, concurrently referring to genetic engineering, also known as recombinant DNA technology. GMO’s are genetically modified organisms, i.e. organisms whose DNA has undergone gene insertion. They are also called GEO’s, for genetically engineered organisms. If a GMO is used for food or to produce GM proteins used in food, the ingested product is called GM food. The term Bioengineering is also used to describe genetic engineering.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM): A pest management strategy that focuses on methods that are least injurious to the environment. Pesticides are applied in such a way that they pose the least possible hazard, and are used as a 'last resort' when other controls are inadequate.

Man-Made Fiber: Man made fibers are fibers that have been created by man using building blocks provided by nature e.g. proteins or cellulose as opposed to fibers made entirely by nature e.g. cotton. Man-Made Fibers include; rayon, modal, cupro etc.

Mercerization: A finishing process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, increased strength and decreased shrinkage.

Naturally grown/all-natural: USDA guidelines state that "natural" meat and poultry products can only undergo minimal processing and cannot contain artificial colors, artificial flavors, preservatives, or other artificial ingredients. The claim "natural" is otherwise unregulated.

Organically Produced Fiber: The raw fiber ingredients, such as cotton, flax or wool, have been certified as "Organic" by a USDA accredited certifying agent in accordance with the National Organic Program (NOP) Standards.

Plant-Based Fibers: Plant fibers are produced by plants, and are a product of agriculture. Cotton, Flax and Hemp are examples of Natural fibers grown in nature.

 

Pre-Consumer Recycled Content: Materials generated by manufacturers and processors, and may consist of scrap, trimmings and other by-products that were never used in the consumer market.

Post-Consumer Recycled Content: Post-consumer material is an end product that has completed its life cycle as a consumer item and would otherwise have been disposed of as a solid waste. Post-consumer materials include recyclables collected in commercial and residential recycling programs, such as office paper, cardboard, aluminum cans, plastics and metals.

Predator Friendly: A farming system that seeks coexistence with native predators rather than their elimination. Ranchers who seek certification as predator friendly agree to minimize contact between stock and predators and use non-lethal control methods for dealing with predators.

Recycled Content: The amount of material by weight collected, separated or otherwise recovered from the solid waste stream for use in the form of raw materials, in the manufacture or assembly of a new package or product. Alternative Definition: An item that contains recovered materials. Recovered materials are wastes that have been diverted from conventional disposal such as landfills for another use. Recovered materials include both pre-consumer and post-consumer wastes.

Regenerated: Regenerated means fiber obtained from natural materials that involve a chemical process to convert the natural material e.g. wood into fiber e.g. viscose. Often referred to as man-made as opposed to synthetic.

Transitional Farming Practices: According to the USDA/NOP standards, farmers must practice organic methods for a ‘transitional time period” of three years on a given piece of land prior to receiving organic certification. "Transitional" means that the farmland is in the 'interim' period of that transition period towards organic certification. During that time all practices are certified organic by certifiers accredited by the National Organic Program.

Synthetics: Fabrics that are not from a renewable resource or natural origins. Synthetics include manmade polyesters and polyvinyl fiber derivatives such as Acrylic, Nylon and Spandex that have been synthesized from petroleum and carbon derivatives.

Fiber Glossary

Abaca (Manila): A vegetable leaf fiber derived from the Musa textiles plant, which is resistant to damage from salt water.

Acetate: A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton, linens and/or wood.

Acrylic: A synthetic fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile.

Alpaca: A hair fiber from the Alpaca animal, a member of the llama family of the South American Andes Mountains.

Alpaca (organic): Free roaming, pasture rotation, distribution of the Alpaca’s manure as fertilizer, fed no hormones, no chemical dipping for ticks and parasites, no chemical ingredients are permitted on the land or animals.

Angora: The hair of the Angora rabbit. The clipped fiber from the Angora rabbit is the softest of rabbit hairs.

Acetate: A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton, linens and/or wood.

Bamboo: As one of the fastest growing plants in the world, bamboo grows to its maximum height in about 3 months and reaches maturity in 3-4 years.  It spreads rapidly across large areas. Because of relatively quick growing time and the ability to be grown without fertilizers or pesticides, the fiber is currently being marketed as an ‘eco-green-sustainable fiber.’ There are also claims that viscose or rayon from bamboo is biodegradable and anti-microbial. There are potential risks associated with using bamboo as a polymer source for rayon since there is currently a lack of transparency in the supply chain. It is not always clear which type of bamboo is used for fiber, where it is grown, how it is cultivated, harvested etc. To date there are no known organic certification of bamboo. 

Linen from Bamboo: A mechanical way of producing bamboo by crushing the woody parts of the bamboo plant and then using natural enzymes to break the bamboo walls into a mushy mass so that the natural fibers can be mechanically combed out and spun into yarn. Very little linen from bamboo is currently manufactured for clothing because it is more labor intensive and costly.

Rayon from Bamboo: The process to make viscose or rayon fiber from bamboo is the same process used to produce viscose/ rayon from any other plant source. The cellulose is extracted from the bamboo, and then the cellulose is mixed with chemicals to convert the plant pulp into textile quality fiber. This process can be very polluting unless it is carefully controlled, which can be influenced by the age and condition of the equipment as well as whether there is any by-product recycling or effluent treatment.

Bamboo is not, in and of itself, recognized as a fiber in the US or EU.  What is referred to as bamboo fiber in the market is actually viscose/rayon.

Note: All viscose or rayon fiber from Bamboo (as a source) that is imported into the US must carry a legal fiber content label declaration of viscose or rayon. All bamboo imported into the EU must use of the legal content declaration viscose; the EU does not permit the use of the word rayon. According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) you must label your garments; "Rayon from Bamboo"

Bast fiber: Strong, soft, woody fibers such as flax, jute, hemp, ramie, and bamboo (if the bamboo is a linen fabric) that is obtained from the inner bark of the stems of certain plants. Linen from Bamboo fabric may fall into this category of Bast fiber.

Cinchilla: A cotton, wool, and even synthetic fabric of sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.

Cupro:  Cuprammonium rayon (Cupro or Cupra) is a regenerated cellulosic fiber made from a cellulose source such as cotton linters (waste fibers too small to spin) using a solution including copper sulfate and aqueous ammonia. A fine lustrous fiber that is stronger than Viscose rayon, Cupro is sometimes trademarked Bemberg and is no longer produced in the US.

Eco-fleece: A nubby, soft fabric made from (PET) recycled soda bottles.

Flax: The Linum usitaatissimum plant, used to produce linen.

Hemp: A bast fiber obtained from the stalk of Cannabis sativa that is very hardy and requires minimal agricultural inputs. It can be grown easily without the use of pesticides. Hemp needs fertilizer and may be grown organically.

Jusi Banana Fabric: A fabric that is generally derived from banana leaves, but may also come from silk worm cocoons.

Jute and Burlap: Fiber used in textiles for interiors, consisting of bundles of fiber held together by gummy pectinaceous substances.

Kapok: A short, lightweight, cotton-like, vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree, commonly used in cushions, mattresses, and life jackets.

Kenaf: A bast fiber obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant, used as a substitute for Jute. Kenaf is also suitable for non-wovens.

Lambswool: Wool that is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months.

Latex: Elastic material derived from the Castilla elastica tree, used to provide stretch to fabrics. Synthetic latex is derived from petrochemicals. Natural latex needs the addition of cross linking agents to render it durable and usable in products.

Lenzing Fibers: There is only one case of manufacturing a regenerated cellulose fiber-where the chemicals used in the process are completely recycled  with a recovery rate of 99.5%, this is known as a closed loop system. The fiber made using this closed looped process is Lenzings TENCEL ® Lyocell. More accurately described Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. TENCEL® Lyocell also carries the Oeko Tex 100 certification and FSC certification (http://www.fsc.org/en/) currently organic standards are not in place for certifying regenerated fibers using trees as a source e.g. Eucalyptus, or Beechwood.  FSC certification for TENCEL® Lyocell is for the forest and for the pulp, they also have been awarded the European-Eco flower label. (www.Lenzing.com)

Latex (blended): Also know as Styrene Butadiene Rubber (SBR), is produced with petrochemicals and doesn't not have the resilience properties that 100% natural latex has. In Europe, anything that has at least 20% natural latex is considered natural.

Linen: A fiber derived from the inside the woody stem of the flax plant.

Lycra: A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber.

Mohair: The fiber from the Angora goat, mohair is mainly produced in South Africa and Texas. The long strong, lustrous fibers are clipped annually and are excellent for use in upholstery and carpeting due to their resilience.

Modal: A regenerated cellulosic fiber derived from beechwood.

Nylon: The first completely synthetic fiber, nylon was developed in 1938.

Nytril: A synthetic fiber, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics.

PLA (Poly Lactic Acid polymer): taken from lactic acid produced by fermenting a sugar source such as corn.

Polyester: A petroleum-based, synthesized fiber introduced and widely used in the early 1950s, often spun with cotton.

Polypropylene (also known as polyolefin and Olefin): A synthetic fiber characterized by its light weight, strength, and abrasion resistance, used in activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery.

Ramie: A woody fiber derived from the stalk of Boehmeria species, grown mainly in China.Raime is naturally white, but also brittle.

Rayon: A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or bamboo vegetable matter.

Silk: A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the worm weaves its cocoon. Cultivated silk comes from silkworms raised in production facilities and the worms are killed before leaving the cocoons as moths in order to prevent damage to the cocoons.

"Peace Silk" is silk that is produced from the fibers of a cocoon cut by the adult silkworms as it exists alive, and is considered a more humane option. "Tussah Silk" known for its tan color, is made from cocoons that are harvested in the wild, often after the moths have left the cocoons.

Sisal: A bast fiber derived from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa.

Soy Fiber:  A fiber with a silky feel, the soy fiber is correctly termed "Azlon from Soy"; these protein fibers are produced using the proteins from soy beans. Azlons can also be made with milk proteins or even chicken feathers.

Soy Sunn: A bast fiber derived from the Crotalaria juncea plant.

Synthetic fibers: Are those in which man has produced the entire operation of the fiber production without allowing nature to manufacture the fiber forming substance (called polymers.). Usually synthetics are made from chemicals derived from non-renewable resources such as coal or oil. The most widely recognized synthetics are polyester and nylon. 

Tencel®: A registered trademark of the Lenzing Fibers Group for Lyocell. More accurately described Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. The source of the cellulose is Eucalyptus.

Tri-acetate: A manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose.

Wool: A protein fiber usually derived from the fleece of sheep or lambs. The term wool can also be generically applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Viscose: Viscose rayon is the oldest and most commonly produced type of rayon. The fiber labeled "rayon" in the US, but however will likely be labeled "viscose" in Europe. Viscose rayon is absorbent but also has poor wet strength and often requires dry cleaning to retain integrity. Other methods of producing rayon include High Wet Modulus (Modal) which improves wet strength and Cupro.

 

© Copyright: 2007 Coral Rose, Eco Innovations, may not be used without written authorization from co-author Coral Rose.