Climb The Green Ladder
Make
Your Company and Career More Sustainable
By Shari Aaron and Amy Fetzer
Be sure and pick up a copy of this book, many inspiring stories-including Sams Club and Walmarts GAME CHANGING entry into organics. A great framework for taking action now---
This Brochure is a Collaboration of:
Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt, Texas State University‐San Marcos
and
Coral Rose, Eco‐Innovations Sustainable Textile Services
by Coral Rose
The FTC recently
charged four textile companies with making false unsubstantiated “green” claims.
According to the FTC these companies were deceptively labeling and advertising
textile related items as made of ‘bamboo’ fiber, when they are made of rayon, and must legally be labeled "Rayon made from bamboo."
The question has again been raised......
"Can bamboo(technically "Rayon from bamboo") textiles be certified organic to the USDA National Organic Program (NOP)?"
The last time this question was posed a few years ago, I was informed that bamboo was considered a product of a forest and therefore could possibly be eligible for FSC Certification.
Given the existing controversy that is still running wild in the textile market, I decided to again reach out to the USDA NOP for clarification. I received the following response:
According to Joan Shaffer,
Office of Public Affairs at the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) “Bamboo” as a raw material for textiles is available for
Organic Certification according to the USDA NOP.
“The organic standards cover
agricultural products from livestock and crop. Bamboo is a crop.” Please see the explanations for textiles in this (Labeling of Textiles Under National Organic
Program (NOP) Regulations) fact sheet.”
“Below is an excerpt from the “Preamble” on “nonedible
fibers products” in the organic standards.”
“(6) Nonedible Fibers Products in the NOP. Some
commenters asked the NOP to clarify the certification status of fibers such as
cotton and flax. The final rule allows for certification of organically
produced fibers such as cotton and flax. However, the processing of these
fibers is not covered by the final rule. Therefore, goods that utilize organic
fibers in their manufacture may only be labeled as a "made with..."
product; e.g., a cotton shirt labeled "made with organic cotton." USDA-AMS Office of Public Affairs
The proper labeling in accordance with the FTC would be:
“Rayon(or Viscose) made from organic bamboo”
*Note that it is the bamboo itself as the CROP (raw material) that
is allowed to be certified as organic to the USDA NOP Standard, and
that the processing of the fiber and or garment is NOT considered in
the process of certification to the USDA NOP Standard.
While this may sound a bit absurd (and about as clean as coal) that rayon can indeed be considered an organic
textile, it is the bamboo itself as the raw material that is being certified as
organic.
***See August 1, 2009 Post below: Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)
First Clean Coal, Now Organic Bamboo? by Coral Rose
Bamboo-based Textiles, Actually Made of Rayon, Are Not Antimicrobial, Made in an Environmentally Friendly Manner, or Biodegradable
Note from Coral Rose: After much hard work and effort, THE FTC is to be congratulated on bringing integrity back to the Eco-Textile Market.
Press Release 8/11/09:
The Federal Trade Commission has charged four sellers of clothing and other
textile products with deceptively labeling and advertising these items as made
of bamboo fiber, when they are made of rayon. The complaints also charge the
companies with making false and unsubstantiated “green” claims that their
clothing and textile products are manufactured using an environmentally friendly
process, that they retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the bamboo
plant, and that they are biodegradable.
“With the tremendous expansion of green claims in today’s marketplace, it is particularly important for the FTC to address deceptive environmental claims, so that consumers can trust that the products they buy have the environmentally friendly attributes they want,” said David Vladeck, Director of the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection. “When companies sell products woven from man-made fibers, such as rayon, it is important that they accurately label and advertise those products – both with respect to the fibers they use and to the qualities those fibers possess.”
FTC ALERT: HAVE YOU BEEN BAMBOOZLED BY BAMBOO FABRICS
FTC BUSINESS ALERT: HOW TO AVOID BAMBOOZLING YOUR CUSTOMERS
For the entire Press Release Use this FTC Website link
Original Post 8.08
USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural
products through its
National Organic Program (NOP) regulation, 7 CFR Part 205.
● Raw natural fibers,
such as cotton, wool ,flax, etc., are agricultural products and
are covered under the NOP
crop/livestock production standards. Off-farm treatment of
raw organic fibers are not
covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards.
● Although the NOP has no
specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing
standards, it may be
possible for fi bers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards
to be processed and
manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP
standards.
Labeling
for Certified Handling/Processing/ Manufacturing Operations
Only textile products
certified to the NOP production AND processing standards are eligible to be
labeled
“100 percent organic” and “organic.”
100 percent organic
● 100 percent organic fiber
content.
● Only organic processing
aids.
● USDA Organic seal may be
displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to
certified products only.
● All operations
producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be
certified.
Organic
● Minimum of 95 percent
organic fiber content.
● 5 percent nonorganic
substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP
regulation.
● No non-organic fibers.
● USDA Organic seal may be
displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to
certified products only.
● All operations
producing, handling, processing,and manufacturing the final
product must be certified.
Other
Uses of the Word “Organic” in Textile Product Labeling
The NOP does not restrict
the use of the term “made with organic …” in the labeling of textile products
to
only those products
manufactured in certified organic facilities or containing a minimum of 70
percent
organic fibers. However,
all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced
and
certified to NOP
standards.
Labels on textile products from non-certified handling/processing/manufacturing
operations:
● May identify specific fibers
as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.
● May state the percentage
of organic fibers contained in the final product.
● May not use the USDA
Organic seal.
● May not imply or lead
the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic
Other
Labeling Laws
● NOP label requirements
are in addition to those required by the Federal Trade
Commission’s (FTC) Textile
and Wool Acts.
● Information on FTC labeling requirements for textiles can be found at the following websites:
Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements of The Textile and Wool Acts
Gland,
Switzerland: The
first batch of sustainable cotton – to be produced with a fraction of the water
and pesticide use of traditional cotton cultivation – is expected to reach
global markets starting next year.
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a partnership between major corporations
such as Adidas, IKEA, Gap, and H&M, and NGOs such as WWF, recently created
a new set of criteria to make cotton cultivation more economically,
environmentally, and socially sustainable.
The Better Cotton System outlines mechanisms to mitigate the negative impacts
of one of the world’s most water and chemical crops, which is often grown in
semi-arid and water scarce areas.
Cotton cultivation covers more than 2.4 percent of global arable land,
involving about 30 million farmers. Cotton is produced in more than 65
countries worldwide, mainly in the developing world.
“The Better Cotton Initiative aims to make global cotton production better for
the people who produce it and better for the environment it grows in” said
Walter Wagner, WWF Switzerland, newly elected vice-chair of the BCI.
Pilot projects are slated to test the BCI system in Pakistan, India, Africa,
and Brazil to provide sustainable cotton to textile makers and buyers starting
next year. For example, the initiative aims to reduce water and pesticide use.
Projects underway in Pakistan and India led by WWF and IKEA have led to 75
percent reduction in water and pesticide use, while increase the net revenue to
cotton producers by 70 percent.
“BCI endeavors to initiate global change in the mass market, with long-term
benefits for the environment, farmers and other people dependent on cotton for
their livelihood,” according to its website.
Original post here: World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Panda.org
From the Industrial Revolution to the Chemical Revolution to the
Green Revolution.
Check out Harmony Art's the (r)evolution of textiles.
You can find the original interview here; "Focus Sustainability" 2008; a comprehensive report by Lenzing Fibers.
Coral Rose, expert on Sustainable Textiles, talks about her views on sustainability in the 21st century.
What do
you think about Lenzing’s achievements in sustainable management
and
which aspects do you consider to be most essential according to your
experience?
Sustainable innovation is the key
economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets or “rules
of engagement” for any sustainable business.
Lenzing offers the fiber market what
few, if any, producers of fibers do, and that is both sustainable innovation and full
transparency of the supply chain. One of the most important global issues is “what is the source
of our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced?” This
is a total mindset shift at the textile design level.
Do you
think that the communication of the Lenzing Botanic Principles has been
well
received by the important players in the market?
Lenzing’s Botanic Principles lead us
back to the source of life on the planet, back to nature. They enhance the education of
the market by applying these simple, yet easy to- understand principles. Botanic
Principles connect the lifecycle of nature and sustainability to fiber innovation.
Nature and sustainability are not separable.
I strongly believe Lenzing’s products
are a key component to any sustainable fiber strategy, when considering all the
environmental impacts associated with fiber growing and production. Lenzing
Modal® and TENCEL ® come out on top – practical, applicable and economically
viable to integrate into fiber strategies of
most global organizations.
In
which segments of the industry do you feel Lenzing innovations have been most
visible?
Lenzing places a high priority not only on supply chain transparency and disclosure, but also continual improvement and ongoing research and improvements of their products. Their innovations are especially vital to the activewear market as options to replace high-performance petrol based products, while maintaining quality fiber performance and economical viability. Many activewear brands are also struggling with finding sustainable options for organic cotton as their customers require garments that have excellent moisture management. Lenzing’s fibers offer the market sustainable fiber performance solutions.
Apart
from the more product related aspects, how would you rate the importance of the
more general social and environmental issues in the supply chain? Are customers
prepared to pay
premiums for outstanding performance in these fields?
Fundamentally, social and
environmental issues are business issues, and this concept is part of the core
foundational principles at Lenzing. “People, Planet, Profit” is often used to
describe the triple bottom line and the goal of
sustainability. The fact is that they are all connected and should be thought
of in one globally accepted conversation. Lenzing does just that.
Human rights and environmental
stewardship are inextricably linked. Everybody has the right to a secure,
healthy and ecologically sound environment. We have also seen a huge market
shift to fair trade products, from coffee to cotton, in the last few years.
This is a positive sign that the brands and consumers are willing to pay extra
to ensure that farmers and producers are able to live sustainably.
Lenzing sets very high benchmarks,
where other fiber producers should aspire to. It is a key valued fiber partner
and regards partnerships with the market to be very important. I recently
toured the Modal facility in Lenzing, Austria, and was impressed with the closed
loop system in place and accountability for all inputs and outputs. note;
Believe it or not-that is a picture (above) of the Lenzing facility in
Lenzing, Austria--right out of the "Sound of Music" in fact the Sound
of Music was filmed on the bluff this picture was taken from!!!!!
“Sustainable innovation is the key economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets for any sustainable business.” Coral Rose
Original post here on EcoTextileNews: Cradle to Cradle offers new ingredient certificate
CHARLOTTESVILLE – [04.02.09] Cradle
to Cradle, the ecological certificate developed by the McDonough Braungart
Design Chemistry (MBDC) consultancy has introduced a new ‘approved ingredient’ element
to its programme, which can be applicable to textiles and clothing.
The new Approved Ingredient
certification programme assesses the sustainability of product ingredients for
human and environmental health, as well as their recyclability or compostability.
“The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient certification makes it easier at the
design stage to create ecologically-intelligent products by choosing materials
that meet key sustainability criteria for material health and material
reutilisation” said Jay Bolus, Vice President of Technical Operations for MBDC.
“We invite material manufacturers to gain this designation and let their
customers know about this as they qualify.”
The Cradle to Cradle Approved
Ingredient designation is the second certification program developed by MBDC,
which initially set out to identify end-products that met a series of
environmental criteria with four levels of attainment, each requiring a higher
achievement: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum.
MBDC‘s Ingredient certification is
open to all manufacturers that make chemicals, materials or substances used in
finished goods. Material assessments are conducted by an in-house team of
scientists and project managers.
Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications
EcoTextileNews Cover Story-November 2008 issue
by Coral Rose
As a result of the U.S. credit
crunch and slowing economy, we are now seeing consumers including, ethical
consumers become more economically
conscious. What remains to be seen is how, if and when this might affect
the solid upward trend of organic and sustainable fibers and products.
The Lenzing Group recently released results for
the first half of 2008. With noted strong sales increases of 17.4%, they
may be the first to acknowledge a shift in the market; “First signs of a
weakening global fiber market were perceptible already from the beginning of
the second quarter.” And “The
unfavorable economic development that started in the USA clouds expectations
for the global economy. The weak dollar and turbulent raw material and energy
markets will add further pressure”
In a
global economy, U.S. issues are global issues. There are now concerns
that the U.S. credit crisis is spreading to Europe and quickly becoming a
global economic hurtle.
“In the short run, I hear people saying that
we won’t have the resources to address sustainability now that we’re spending a
trillion rescuing the financial system. That seems backwards. We
need to address climate change and resource shortages even more aggressively.
It’s about risk management. The leaner we are, the less stuff we
use to make every product and service, the better prepared we are for whatever
comes our way.” Andrew Winston, Founder of Eco-Strategies,
and Co-Author Green to Gold.
We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic
growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people,
around the world rise to unprecedented levels.
As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic
development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of
environmental and social issues as well.
Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding
to that, about 70 million people each year. Some might assert that the current
global economic business model cannot support or sustain economic progress for
the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.
“In many ways, the credit crunch is
the epitome of non-sustainability. Observing this crisis, you can study the
consequences of non-sustainable (economic) actions that - in the end -
will affect people, in other words the social/societal dimension of
sustainability. For us this development strengthens the conviction that
sustainable management is the only way of succeeding in the long run and we
will continue to focus on sustainability in all respects." Friedrich Weninger, Vice-President,
Lenzing AG.
In the coming months, we will invariably
see organizations implementing mid-course short term adjustments to their long
term strategies. Some consider this the opportunity of the 21st
Century; to bring fresh ideas, knowledge, collaborative resources and
innovation together in ways that link sustainability, with opportunities for
sustainable economic growth.
David Basson, President
of Greensource Organic Company, views sustainability as “the competitive
advantage to the slowing economy.” “Sustainability is front and center on consumer’s minds right now,
with high energy costs being a primary focus of
the current Presidential elections.”
“We are seeing a tighter economy;
consumers are looking for value and shopping
at stores that they had not previously frequented.” He noted
a recent trip where he observed many high - end cars in a Walmart parking
lot, he sees this as an enormous opportunity for Mass Market retailers.
While the current
economic slowdown is not affecting Greensource fiber strategies, David Basson
noted that pricing is still a large factor. As a vertical supplier he stressed
the importance of long term relationships in his supply chain, as being “key to
being able to service his customers through any economic challenges that may
occur.”
Patagonia is a brand that has successfully
created long term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by considering the
environmental and social impacts of their supply chain and products. Levi
Straus & Co. recently reported that the current economic slowdown “is not
hindering any product initiatives or other work LS&CO is doing in this
(sustainability) area.”
"Marc Gunther, Senior Writer Fortune Magazine, who writes about the impact of business on society, with a focus on environmental issues, says “that this turmoil in the capital markets can't be good for the sustainability movement.” however, “if nothing else the economic slowdown is a huge distraction. But this will pass, eventually, and then there is no way that companies, and consumers, are going to be able to ignore sustainability"
"Walmart remains committed to
Sustainability," according to Walmart spokeswoman Shannon Frederick; “At
Walmart, we believe that being environmentally friendly and running a good
business go hand in hand during times of economic prosperity as well as during
tough economic times like our customers are currently experiencing. We remain
committed to our sustainability-focused goals to be supplied 100% by renewable
energy, to create zero waste, and to sell products that sustain our resources
and the environment. All along we have said that we believe families should
have access to affordable environmentally-friendly products. And we're
committed to making sure our customers don't have to choose between a more
sustainable product and one they can afford.”
How might the economic slowdown
affect consumer purchasing behavior? Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases
of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods
and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of
understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.” Will
we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?
As the impacts of a slowing
economy are felt, companies that can adapt quickly to the
troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business
practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost
savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain, could lead
us to a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.
Economically tough times of the past
yield us some insight to forthcoming possible actions; Retailers may sharpen
margins and work towards leaner inventories; this will trickle down the supply
chain. Brands and retailers may be less willing to make long term commitments
at least for the short term until the rising economic tide has passed. Consumers
will invariably spend less money while at the same time looking for products
with added brand value, and consumers will shift to purchasing practical-no
frills basics, this includes upcoming holiday gift purchases.
It is clear that companies who can strategize to thrive during this time, will no doubt be well situated for long term sustainable economic development and growth.
Copyright(C) 2008 Mowbry Communications Limited
