Climb The Green Ladder
Make
Your Company and Career More Sustainable
By Shari Aaron and Amy Fetzer
Be sure and pick up a copy of this book, many inspiring stories-including Sams Club and Walmarts GAME CHANGING entry into organics. A great framework for taking action now---
Bamboo-based Textiles, Actually Made of Rayon, Are Not Antimicrobial, Made in an Environmentally Friendly Manner, or Biodegradable
Note from Coral Rose: After much hard work and effort, THE FTC is to be congratulated on bringing integrity back to the Eco-Textile Market.
Press Release 8/11/09:
The Federal Trade Commission has charged four sellers of clothing and other
textile products with deceptively labeling and advertising these items as made
of bamboo fiber, when they are made of rayon. The complaints also charge the
companies with making false and unsubstantiated “green” claims that their
clothing and textile products are manufactured using an environmentally friendly
process, that they retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the bamboo
plant, and that they are biodegradable.
“With the tremendous expansion of green claims in today’s marketplace, it is particularly important for the FTC to address deceptive environmental claims, so that consumers can trust that the products they buy have the environmentally friendly attributes they want,” said David Vladeck, Director of the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection. “When companies sell products woven from man-made fibers, such as rayon, it is important that they accurately label and advertise those products – both with respect to the fibers they use and to the qualities those fibers possess.”
FTC ALERT: HAVE YOU BEEN BAMBOOZLED BY BAMBOO FABRICS
FTC BUSINESS ALERT: HOW TO AVOID BAMBOOZLING YOUR CUSTOMERS
For the entire Press Release Use this FTC Website link
Green Recovery,
written by Green to Gold
author Andrew Winston, explains why making environmentally sound decisions is a
must in tough times, and offers a step-by-step guide to making green thinking
an easy and lucrative part of your company's recovery strategy.
Based on Green Recovery, "Green Cost Cutting" outlines the five key ways every business can use eco-friendly business practices to start saving money right now.
Andrew’s book is expected to be available in August.
You can download a core chapter of the book here. Green Recovery
EcoTextileNews Cover Story-November 2008 issue
by Coral Rose
As a result of the U.S. credit
crunch and slowing economy, we are now seeing consumers including, ethical
consumers become more economically
conscious. What remains to be seen is how, if and when this might affect
the solid upward trend of organic and sustainable fibers and products.
The Lenzing Group recently released results for
the first half of 2008. With noted strong sales increases of 17.4%, they
may be the first to acknowledge a shift in the market; “First signs of a
weakening global fiber market were perceptible already from the beginning of
the second quarter.” And “The
unfavorable economic development that started in the USA clouds expectations
for the global economy. The weak dollar and turbulent raw material and energy
markets will add further pressure”
In a
global economy, U.S. issues are global issues. There are now concerns
that the U.S. credit crisis is spreading to Europe and quickly becoming a
global economic hurtle.
“In the short run, I hear people saying that
we won’t have the resources to address sustainability now that we’re spending a
trillion rescuing the financial system. That seems backwards. We
need to address climate change and resource shortages even more aggressively.
It’s about risk management. The leaner we are, the less stuff we
use to make every product and service, the better prepared we are for whatever
comes our way.” Andrew Winston, Founder of Eco-Strategies,
and Co-Author Green to Gold.
We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic
growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people,
around the world rise to unprecedented levels.
As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic
development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of
environmental and social issues as well.
Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding
to that, about 70 million people each year. Some might assert that the current
global economic business model cannot support or sustain economic progress for
the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.
“In many ways, the credit crunch is
the epitome of non-sustainability. Observing this crisis, you can study the
consequences of non-sustainable (economic) actions that - in the end -
will affect people, in other words the social/societal dimension of
sustainability. For us this development strengthens the conviction that
sustainable management is the only way of succeeding in the long run and we
will continue to focus on sustainability in all respects." Friedrich Weninger, Vice-President,
Lenzing AG.
In the coming months, we will invariably
see organizations implementing mid-course short term adjustments to their long
term strategies. Some consider this the opportunity of the 21st
Century; to bring fresh ideas, knowledge, collaborative resources and
innovation together in ways that link sustainability, with opportunities for
sustainable economic growth.
David Basson, President
of Greensource Organic Company, views sustainability as “the competitive
advantage to the slowing economy.” “Sustainability is front and center on consumer’s minds right now,
with high energy costs being a primary focus of
the current Presidential elections.”
“We are seeing a tighter economy;
consumers are looking for value and shopping
at stores that they had not previously frequented.” He noted
a recent trip where he observed many high - end cars in a Walmart parking
lot, he sees this as an enormous opportunity for Mass Market retailers.
While the current
economic slowdown is not affecting Greensource fiber strategies, David Basson
noted that pricing is still a large factor. As a vertical supplier he stressed
the importance of long term relationships in his supply chain, as being “key to
being able to service his customers through any economic challenges that may
occur.”
Patagonia is a brand that has successfully
created long term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by considering the
environmental and social impacts of their supply chain and products. Levi
Straus & Co. recently reported that the current economic slowdown “is not
hindering any product initiatives or other work LS&CO is doing in this
(sustainability) area.”
"Marc Gunther, Senior Writer Fortune Magazine, who writes about the impact of business on society, with a focus on environmental issues, says “that this turmoil in the capital markets can't be good for the sustainability movement.” however, “if nothing else the economic slowdown is a huge distraction. But this will pass, eventually, and then there is no way that companies, and consumers, are going to be able to ignore sustainability"
"Walmart remains committed to
Sustainability," according to Walmart spokeswoman Shannon Frederick; “At
Walmart, we believe that being environmentally friendly and running a good
business go hand in hand during times of economic prosperity as well as during
tough economic times like our customers are currently experiencing. We remain
committed to our sustainability-focused goals to be supplied 100% by renewable
energy, to create zero waste, and to sell products that sustain our resources
and the environment. All along we have said that we believe families should
have access to affordable environmentally-friendly products. And we're
committed to making sure our customers don't have to choose between a more
sustainable product and one they can afford.”
How might the economic slowdown
affect consumer purchasing behavior? Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases
of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods
and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of
understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.” Will
we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?
As the impacts of a slowing
economy are felt, companies that can adapt quickly to the
troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business
practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost
savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain, could lead
us to a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.
Economically tough times of the past
yield us some insight to forthcoming possible actions; Retailers may sharpen
margins and work towards leaner inventories; this will trickle down the supply
chain. Brands and retailers may be less willing to make long term commitments
at least for the short term until the rising economic tide has passed. Consumers
will invariably spend less money while at the same time looking for products
with added brand value, and consumers will shift to purchasing practical-no
frills basics, this includes upcoming holiday gift purchases.
It is clear that companies who can strategize to thrive during this time, will no doubt be well situated for long term sustainable economic development and growth.
Copyright(C) 2008 Mowbry Communications Limited
By
Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt-Professor of Textiles Texas State University and
Coral Rose, Founder Eco-Innovations Sustainable Textile Strategies
© Copyright: 2007 Coral Rose, Eco Innovations, may not be used without prior written authorization from Coral Rose.
Biobased
Fiber: Fiber
that is derived from plants and processed using naturally occurring organisms
or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not
hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable
methods.
Certified
Humane:
The Certified Humane
Raised and Handled® program is a certification and labeling
program that is the only animal welfare label requiring the humane treatment of
farm animals from birth through slaughter. The goal of the program is to
improve the lives of farm animals by driving consumer demand for kinder and
more responsible farm animal practices. These animals are allowed to engage in
their natural behaviors; raised with sufficient space, shelter and gentle
handling to limit stress, given ample fresh water and a healthy diet without
added antibiotics or hormones. Note: Not
all "humane" label claims are regulated.
Conventionally
Produced: An
agricultural product that is not certified as having been produced using
organic or sustainable methods. Potentially toxic chemicals such as herbicides,
pesticides and fertilizers are commonly used in the agricultural processes.
Dyes
(Low Impact): Dyes
that contain no metals, low salt, and are AZO & dioxazines compound free.
Low impact dyes require significantly less water for the dyeing process so
there is less polluted runoff than from the conventional dye process. Organic
cotton and most other fabrics can be successfully colored with fiber-reactive low impact dyes or all natural dyes such as-insects, clay,
vegetables, berries, indigo, and other plant extracts.
Dyes
(Fiber-Reactive): A
color producing compound which has a molecular group capable of forming a
covalent bond with atoms on the textile polymers. This bond is very strong
which creates good colorfastness and reduces dye run-off during processing or
care.
Ethical
Trading: Ethical
Trading (or sourcing) is a business model that aims to ensure that acceptable
minimum labor standards are met in the supply chains of the whole range of companies
products. This process ensures the basic labor rights of the employees are
respected.
Fair
Trade: Fairtrade
certification is a market-based model of international trade that benefits over
one million farmers and farm workers in over fifty developing countries.
Fairtrade
Mark: A
product that is produced and traded under Fair Trade conditions as defined by
Fairtrade Labeling Organization (FLO) and certified by FLO or one of its member
National Initiatives. The Fair Trade Mark certifies individual products and not whole companies.
Fair
Trade Principles: Fair Trade Principles
Include;
Fair Prices, Fair Labor Conditions, Direct Trade, Democratic and Transparent
Organizations, Community Development and Environmental Sustainability.
Genetically
Modified Organism (GMO): The terms
genetically modified (GM) and genetically engineered (GE) are used interchangeably
by the industry, concurrently referring to genetic engineering, also known as recombinant DNA
technology. GMO’s are
genetically modified
organisms, i.e. organisms whose DNA has undergone gene
insertion. They are also called GEO’s,
for genetically
engineered organisms. If a GMO is used for food or to produce
GM proteins used in food, the ingested product is called GM food. The term Bioengineering is also
used to describe genetic engineering.
Integrated
Pest Management (IPM): A pest management strategy that focuses on methods that
are least injurious to the environment. Pesticides are applied in such a way
that they pose the least possible hazard, and are used as a 'last resort' when
other controls are inadequate.
Man-Made
Fiber: Man
made fibers are fibers that have been created by man using building blocks
provided by nature e.g. proteins or cellulose as opposed to fibers made
entirely by nature e.g. cotton. Man-Made
Fibers include; rayon, modal, cupro etc.
Mercerization:
A
finishing process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or
yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) and later
neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber,
resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased
affinity for dyes, increased strength and decreased shrinkage.
Naturally
grown/all-natural: USDA
guidelines state that "natural" meat and poultry products can only
undergo minimal processing and cannot contain artificial colors, artificial
flavors, preservatives, or other artificial ingredients. The claim
"natural" is otherwise unregulated.
Organically
Produced Fiber: The
raw fiber ingredients, such as cotton, flax or wool, have been certified as
"Organic" by a USDA accredited certifying agent in accordance with
the National Organic Program (NOP) Standards.
Plant-Based
Fibers: Plant
fibers are produced by plants, and are a product of agriculture. Cotton, Flax
and Hemp are examples of Natural
fibers grown in nature.
Pre-Consumer
Recycled Content: Materials
generated by manufacturers and processors, and may consist of scrap, trimmings
and other by-products that were never used in the consumer market.
Post-Consumer
Recycled Content: Post-consumer
material is an end product that has completed its life cycle as a consumer item
and would otherwise have been disposed of as a solid waste. Post-consumer
materials include recyclables collected in commercial and residential recycling
programs, such as office paper, cardboard, aluminum cans, plastics and metals.
Predator
Friendly: A
farming system that seeks coexistence with native predators rather than their
elimination. Ranchers who seek certification as predator friendly agree to
minimize contact between stock and predators and use non-lethal control methods
for dealing with predators.
Recycled
Content: The
amount of material by weight collected, separated or otherwise recovered from
the solid waste stream for use in the form of raw materials, in the manufacture
or assembly of a new package or product. Alternative Definition: An item that
contains recovered materials. Recovered materials are wastes that have been
diverted from conventional disposal such as landfills for another use.
Recovered materials include both pre-consumer
and post-consumer wastes.
Regenerated:
Regenerated
means fiber obtained from natural materials that involve a chemical process to
convert the natural material e.g. wood into fiber e.g. viscose. Often referred
to as man-made as opposed to synthetic.
Transitional
Farming Practices: According
to the USDA/NOP standards, farmers must
practice organic methods for a ‘transitional time period” of three years on a
given piece of land prior to receiving organic certification. "Transitional"
means that the farmland is in the 'interim' period of that transition period
towards organic certification. During that time all practices are certified organic
by certifiers accredited by the National Organic Program.
Synthetics:
Fabrics
that are not from a renewable resource or natural origins. Synthetics include
manmade polyesters and polyvinyl fiber derivatives such as Acrylic, Nylon and
Spandex that have been synthesized from petroleum and carbon derivatives.
Fiber Glossary
Abaca (Manila):
A
vegetable leaf fiber derived from the Musa textiles plant, which is resistant
to damage from salt water.
Acetate:
A
manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton,
linens and/or wood.
Acrylic:
A
synthetic fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile.
Alpaca:
A
hair fiber from the Alpaca animal, a member of the llama family of the South
American Andes Mountains.
Alpaca
(organic): Free
roaming, pasture rotation, distribution of the Alpaca’s manure as fertilizer,
fed no hormones, no chemical dipping for ticks and parasites, no chemical
ingredients are permitted on the land or animals.
Angora:
The
hair of the Angora rabbit. The clipped fiber from the Angora rabbit is the
softest of rabbit hairs.
Acetate:
A
manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton,
linens and/or wood.
Bamboo: As one of the
fastest growing plants in the world, bamboo grows to its maximum height in
about 3 months and reaches maturity in 3-4 years. It spreads rapidly
across large areas. Because of relatively quick growing time and the ability to
be grown without fertilizers or pesticides, the fiber is currently being
marketed as an ‘eco-green-sustainable fiber.’ There are also claims that
viscose or rayon from bamboo is biodegradable and anti-microbial. There are
potential risks associated with using bamboo as a polymer source for rayon
since there is currently a lack of transparency in the supply chain. It is not
always clear which type of bamboo is used for fiber, where it is grown, how it
is cultivated, harvested etc. To date there are no known organic certification
of bamboo.
Linen
from Bamboo: A
mechanical way of producing bamboo by crushing the woody parts of the bamboo
plant and then using natural enzymes to break the bamboo walls into a mushy
mass so that the natural fibers can be mechanically combed out and spun into
yarn. Very little linen from bamboo is currently manufactured for clothing
because it is more labor intensive and costly.
Rayon
from Bamboo: The
process to make viscose or rayon fiber from bamboo is the same process used to
produce viscose/ rayon from any other plant source. The cellulose is extracted
from the bamboo, and then the cellulose is mixed with chemicals to convert the
plant pulp into textile quality fiber. This process can be very polluting
unless it is carefully controlled, which can be influenced by the age and
condition of the equipment as well as whether there is any by-product recycling
or effluent treatment.
Bamboo is not, in and
of itself, recognized as a fiber in the US or EU. What is referred to as
bamboo fiber in the market is actually viscose/rayon.
Note: All viscose or rayon fiber from Bamboo (as a source) that
is imported into the US must carry a legal fiber content label declaration of
viscose or rayon. All bamboo imported into the EU must use of the legal content
declaration viscose; the EU does not permit the use of the word rayon. According
to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) you must label your garments; "Rayon
from Bamboo"
Bast
fiber: Strong,
soft, woody fibers such as flax, jute, hemp, ramie, and bamboo (if the bamboo
is a linen fabric) that is obtained from the inner bark of the stems of certain
plants. Linen from Bamboo fabric may
fall into this category of Bast fiber.
Cinchilla:
A
cotton, wool, and even synthetic fabric of sateen or twill construction with
extra fillings for long floats.
Cupro: Cuprammonium rayon (Cupro or Cupra) is a
regenerated cellulosic fiber made from a cellulose source such as cotton linters (waste fibers too small
to spin) using a solution including copper sulfate and aqueous ammonia. A fine lustrous
fiber that is stronger than Viscose rayon, Cupro is sometimes trademarked
Bemberg and is no longer produced in the US.
Eco-fleece:
A nubby,
soft fabric made from (PET) recycled soda bottles.
Flax: The Linum
usitaatissimum plant, used to produce linen.
Hemp: A bast fiber obtained
from the stalk of Cannabis sativa that is very hardy and requires minimal
agricultural inputs. It can be grown easily without the use of pesticides. Hemp
needs fertilizer and may be grown organically.
Jusi
Banana Fabric: A
fabric that is generally derived from banana leaves, but may also come from
silk worm cocoons.
Jute
and Burlap: Fiber
used in textiles for interiors, consisting of bundles of fiber held together by
gummy pectinaceous substances.
Kapok: A short, lightweight,
cotton-like, vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree,
commonly used in cushions, mattresses, and life jackets.
Kenaf: A bast fiber obtained
from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant, used as a substitute for Jute. Kenaf is
also suitable for non-wovens.
Lambswool:
Wool
that is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months.
Latex: Elastic material
derived from the Castilla elastica tree, used to provide stretch to fabrics.
Synthetic latex is derived from petrochemicals. Natural latex needs the
addition of cross linking agents to render it durable and usable in products.
Lenzing
Fibers: There
is only one case of manufacturing a regenerated cellulose fiber-where the
chemicals used in the process are completely recycled with a recovery
rate of 99.5%, this is known as a closed loop system. The fiber made using this
closed looped process is Lenzings TENCEL ® Lyocell. More accurately described
Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved
keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. TENCEL® Lyocell also
carries the Oeko Tex 100 certification and FSC certification (http://www.fsc.org/en/) currently organic
standards are not in place for certifying regenerated fibers using trees as a
source e.g. Eucalyptus, or Beechwood. FSC certification for TENCEL®
Lyocell is for the forest and for the pulp, they also have been awarded the
European-Eco flower label. (www.Lenzing.com)
Latex
(blended): Also
know as Styrene Butadiene Rubber (SBR), is produced with petrochemicals and
doesn't not have the resilience properties that 100% natural latex has. In
Europe, anything that has at least 20% natural latex is considered natural.
Linen: A fiber derived from
the inside the woody stem of the flax plant.
Lycra: A DuPont trademark
for its spandex fiber.
Mohair:
The
fiber from the Angora goat, mohair is mainly produced in South Africa and
Texas. The long strong, lustrous fibers are clipped annually and are excellent
for use in upholstery and carpeting due to their resilience.
Modal: A regenerated
cellulosic fiber derived from beechwood.
Nylon: The first completely
synthetic fiber, nylon was developed
in 1938.
Nytril:
A
synthetic fiber, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics.
PLA
(Poly Lactic Acid polymer): taken from lactic acid produced by fermenting
a sugar source such as corn.
Polyester:
A
petroleum-based, synthesized fiber introduced and widely used in the early
1950s, often spun with cotton.
Polypropylene
(also known as polyolefin and Olefin): A synthetic fiber characterized by its light
weight, strength, and abrasion resistance, used in activewear apparel, rope,
indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery.
Ramie: A woody fiber derived
from the stalk of Boehmeria species, grown mainly in China.Raime is naturally
white, but also brittle.
Rayon: A manufactured fiber
composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or
bamboo vegetable matter.
Silk: A fiber produced by
the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the
worm weaves its cocoon. Cultivated silk comes from silkworms raised in
production facilities and the worms are killed before leaving the cocoons as
moths in order to prevent damage to the cocoons.
"Peace
Silk"
is silk that is produced from the fibers of a cocoon cut by the adult silkworms
as it exists alive, and is considered a more humane option. "Tussah Silk" known for its tan
color, is made from cocoons that are harvested in the wild, often after the
moths have left the cocoons.
Sisal: A bast fiber derived
from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central
America, and Africa.
Soy
Fiber: A fiber with a silky feel, the soy fiber is correctly
termed "Azlon from Soy"; these protein fibers are produced using the
proteins from soy beans. Azlons can also be made with milk proteins or even
chicken feathers.
Soy
Sunn: A
bast fiber derived from the Crotalaria juncea plant.
Synthetic
fibers: Are
those in which man has produced the entire operation of the fiber production
without allowing nature to manufacture the fiber forming substance (called
polymers.). Usually synthetics are made from chemicals derived from
non-renewable resources such as coal or oil. The most widely recognized
synthetics are polyester and nylon.
Tencel®:
A registered
trademark of the Lenzing Fibers Group for Lyocell. More accurately described
Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved
keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. The source of the
cellulose is Eucalyptus.
Tri-acetate:
A
manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose.
Wool: A protein fiber
usually derived from the fleece of sheep or lambs. The term wool can also be
generically applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the
Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca,
llama, or vicuna.
Viscose: Viscose rayon is the
oldest and most commonly produced type of rayon. The fiber labeled
"rayon" in the US, but however will likely be labeled
"viscose" in Europe. Viscose rayon is absorbent but also has poor wet
strength and often requires dry cleaning to retain integrity. Other methods of
producing rayon include High Wet Modulus (Modal) which improves wet strength
and Cupro.
© Copyright: 2007 Coral Rose, Eco Innovations, may not be used without prior written authorization from Coral Rose.
The sales volume of
organic products, which had been growing at 20 percent a year in recent years,
slowed to a much lower growth rate in the last few months, according to the
Nielsen Company, a market research firm.
“Organics continue to grow and outpace many
categories,” the Nielsen Company concluded in an October report. “However,
recent weeks are showing slower growths, possibly a start of an organics growth
plateau.”
For the four-week period
that ended Oct. 4, the volume of organic products sold rose just 4 percent
compared with the same period a year earlier.
If the slowdown
continues, it could have broad implications beyond the organic industry, whose
success spawned a growing number of products with values-based marketing claims,
from fair trade coffee to hormone-free beef to humanely raised chickens. Nearly
all of them command a premium price.
While a group of core
customers considers organic or locally produced products a top priority, the
growth of recent years was driven by a far larger group of less committed
customers. The weak economy is prompting many of them to choose which marketing
claim, if any, is really important to them.
Among organic products,
those marketed to children will probably continue to thrive because they appeal
to parents’ concerns about health, said Laurie Demeritt, the president and
chief operating officer of the Hartman Group, a market research firm for the
health and wellness industry. But products that do not have as much perceived
benefit, like processed foods for adults, may struggle.
Theresa Marquez, the
chief marketing executive for Organic Valley, which sells primarily dairy
products, said she was not worried about core customers because they were so
committed to buying organic.
“I’m not sure the
periphery — those that purchase perhaps only four or so times a month — will
break the industry,” she said in an e-mail conversation after the convention.
“But I am concerned that those periphery customers are important to the growth
of the industry and without them, organic growth is sure to go flat.”
Organic Valley’s sales
have slowed in the last four months, in part because of price increases,
company officials said.
Robert Atallah, the
owner of Cedarlane Foods, which makes organic and natural frozen meals, said
his business had slowed in the last 18 months, a problem he attributed to
increased competition and the economy. He said that he believed a newly
developed line of products could help sales but cannot convince buyers for
grocery chains to commit.
“The morale of buyers is
so low, they don’t want to buy anything,” he said. “It’s a sick feeling all the
way around. People don’t know if their job is going to be there.”
But others said they had
not yet noticed a slowdown and were optimistic that sales would remain steady —
or possibly improve — as consumers ate fewer meals in restaurants and devoted
more time to cooking. Some store-brand manufacturers said they were thriving as
consumers looked for cheaper alternatives to branded products.
Some others said they
were cutting back on organic food to save money.Joni Heard, a 29-year-old
mother of two who lives in central Florida, said that in the past she would buy
organic milk, cheese and produce but had cut back because it was too expensive.
“I’m a stay-at-home mom and my husband — you never know if he’s going to be
laid off,” she said in an interview, explaining that her husband works in
construction. “I can’t justify spending $2 or $3 more for a single item.”
The shift to “NATURAL”
The Natural Marketing
Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages.
“This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding,
availability, price, and perceived benefits.” *Note: there is not a USDA Standard with third party certification in
place for products with a “Natural” identifier as there is for and “Organic”
label.
Will we see this trend from organic
to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?
Portions originally posted
Here by The New York Times;
Budgets Squeezed, Some Families
Bypass Organics
The number of
U.S. consumers who think sustainability is here to stay outnumbers those who
don’t by two-to-one, according to Natural Marketing Institute’s LOHAS
Consumer Trends Database.
And since
consumers are expecting sustainability to stay, businesses should be prepared
to meet those expectations, according to NMI. This has major implications for
businesses across all market sectors, which will need to have long-term plans
in place to address sustainability.
“Furthermore,
those first to adapt and succeed in their industry will have first-mover
advantage,” according to NMI. “There is no time like the present to evaluate a
company’s impact and develop short-term and long-term goals for addressing your
impact. Effective CSR encompasses more than just good PR. Companies must be
actively practicing and promoting their efforts in terms of how they develop,
manufacture, transport, sell products and services - and do so in a way which
resonates with buyers.”
Orginal Post on EcoTextile News click here
MATLOCK – [08.07.08] A new on-line
calculator which allows consumers to calculate the environmental impact of
their clothing has been launched by Colour Connections Ltd – the same company
which developed the ground-breaking textile eco-metrics
(click here or see this blogs 7.18.08 post) for manufacturers and clothing brands.
The new ‘Household Textile
Environmental Impact Calculator’ differs from textile eco-metrics in that it's
aimed specifically at shoppers instead of the textile industry. Using a series
of drop-down menus and a set of complex mathematics hidden behind its user
friendly interface allows consumers to assess the environmental impact of the
choices they make when they buy, care and dispose of household textiles and
clothing.
All users have to do is choose from
a list of common clothing items in terms of how many items they buy and how
they are disposed in a twelve month period. Then users are asked how these
items are washed, dried and ironed in a typical week. After pressing the
'calculate' button, users score a rating in terms of 'Environmental Damage
Units' or EDU’s. The EDU value is an environmental measure which is
scientifically arrived at based on water and energy use, the use of
non-renewable resources and pollution.
The overall EDU score for each item
of clothing depends on each individual consumer’s buying preferences, how they
care for their garments and ultimately how they dispose of them.
“You may be surprised at how much
impact your personal or family clothing preferences have on the environment,”
said Phil Patterson, managing director of Colour Connections. “Doing one fewer
tumble drying cycle per week saves 170 EDU’s, which is enough to make the
fabric for 50 pairs of underpants.”
CLICK HERE to see how
your wardrobe stacks up.
Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications
Ltd
USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural
products through its
National Organic Program (NOP) regulation, 7 CFR Part 205.
● Raw natural fibers,
such as cotton, wool ,flax, etc., are agricultural products and
are covered under the NOP
crop/livestock production standards. Off-farm treatment of
raw organic fibers are not
covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards.
● Although the NOP has no
specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing
standards, it may be
possible for fi bers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards
to be processed and
manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP
standards.
Labeling
for Certified Handling/Processing/ Manufacturing Operations
Only textile products
certified to the NOP production AND processing standards are eligible to be
labeled
“100 percent organic” and “organic.”
100 percent organic
● 100 percent organic fiber
content.
● Only organic processing
aids.
● USDA Organic seal may be
displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to
certified products only.
● All operations
producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be
certified.
Organic
● Minimum of 95 percent
organic fiber content.
● 5 percent nonorganic
substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP
regulation.
● No non-organic fibers.
● USDA Organic seal may be
displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to
certified products only.
● All operations
producing, handling, processing,and manufacturing the final
product must be certified.
Other
Uses of the Word “Organic” in Textile Product Labeling
The NOP does not restrict
the use of the term “made with organic …” in the labeling of textile products
to
only those products
manufactured in certified organic facilities or containing a minimum of 70
percent
organic fibers. However,
all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced
and
certified to NOP
standards.
Labels on textile products from non-certified handling/processing/manufacturing
operations:
● May identify specific fibers
as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.
● May state the percentage
of organic fibers contained in the final product.
● May not use the USDA
Organic seal.
● May not imply or lead
the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic
Other
Labeling Laws
● NOP label requirements
are in addition to those required by the Federal Trade
Commission’s (FTC) Textile
and Wool Acts.
● Information on FTC labeling requirements for textiles can be found at the following websites:
Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements of The Textile and Wool Acts
Originally Posted Here on Eco Textile News
PONTEFRACT – [07.18.08] Textile
eco-metrics, the world’s first tool for simple assessment of the environmental
impacts of textile production and use has been now been launched by Colour
Connections in conjunction with Ecotextile News. It is now available to
access directly from this web-site.
This revolutionary new web-based
calculator takes into account the entire production route from fibre selection
through to fabric production to dyeing and finishing. It also compares the
production impacts of different washing and drying methods over the lifetime of
a garment by consumers.
Using cleverly derived Environmental
Damage Units (EDU’s) the impact of different fibres, fabric weights and dyeing
and finishing methods can be compared in terms of water impact, energy use, use
of non-renewable resources and pollution.
A simple colour coded report is
produced that enables users to see at a glance where a particular product has
most impact and highlights the areas that require attention or, conversely,
where products and methods are good. The easy-to-read colour coded grid
conceals the complex mathematics involved but an overall indicative EDU score
enables easy comparisons between different textiles to be made.
Textile eco-metrics also provides
simple, easy to understand explanations of what is good or bad about a
particular fibre, fabric or process so it can be used to increase the levels of
understanding about what is fact and what is ‘greenwash’ in the world of
textiles and clothing.
Of particular interest to those
committed to a sustainable textile industry are the Sub-Optimal Durability
Units (SODU’s) that are calculated to show just how bad low durability clothing
merchandise is for the environment. For example a product that has a production
impact of 10 EDU’s and lasts for 50 domestic washes is far better than a
similar garment that an impact of five production EDU’s but only lasts five washes
– the latter garment would need to replaced nine times in the same lifetime so
a penalty of 45 EDU’s would be awarded.
Textile Eco-metrics will be
developed on an on-going basis and is available for an annual subscription.
To see how to use Eco-Metrics CLICK HERE.
CLICK HERE for more information on how to subscribe to EcoTextile News.
Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications Ltd
