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The (r)evolution of textiles:

From the Industrial Revolution to the Chemical Revolution to the
Green Revolution.

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the (r)evolution of textiles:

 
 

Looking Upstream: A New View of 21st Century Business Practices

By Coral Rose

Original post here:The University of Delaware's online FIBER JOURNAL publication

We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people around the world rise to unprecedented levels. As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and social issues as well.

Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some may assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or sustain social and economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.

In the world of globalization, fundamentally social and environmental issues are business issues and are inseparable from one another.

According to a recent poll conducted by the Global Strategy Group, 87 percent of consumers are more likely to buy products from a retailer that is committed to environmentally sound practices.

With increased awareness, the concern for many companies becomes how to achieve the maximum economic benefit from environmentally and socially responsible products and practices while at the same time increasing shareholder value and increasing stakeholder trust.

Hidden from our View

Today, the majority of products’ social and environmental impacts are hidden from our view — that is, the effects of a product’s social and environmental impacts (life cycle) before it hits the shelves and consumers’ hands. The average designer to purchasing agent (consumers as well) is unaware of the global impacts of their decisions. Hidden from their sight is what lies upstream; all the impacts of growing, processing, manufacturing and transporting raw materials and component parts. Twentieth-century business practices have taught these professionals to focus only on what is downstream (production to consumer).

In the United States in 1960, we were generating 2.7 pounds of waste per person per day. In 2006, that number is 4.6 pounds of waste per person per day. By the time that waste fills one garbage can, 70 garbage cans of waste was created upstream to make the stuff that is now going to the landfill.

To begin to create an accurate picture of what and who are upstream and to make informed decisions about what actions we will take downstream, we must begin to ask: What is the source of our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced? And who and what (people-animals-environment) in the supply chain is affected by the harvesting, processing, and production of our products?

Considering all the social and environmental impacts from harvest/processing to waste/reuse is a total mindset shift at the product design and creation level and a key component to sustainable economic development strategies.

Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenents or “rules of engagement” for any 21st-century business model.

Ethical Consumerism

Ethical consumerism is on the rise. It’s a movement based on purchasing products that have been ethically produced by organizations that are involved in a process of ensuring that the basic labor rights of the employees of their Third World suppliers are respected.

According to a recent study reported by the Wall Street Journal, companies that embrace more ethical production practices (social and environmental) that are third-party certified, may produce larger profit margins.

What are consumers willing to pay for a pound of coffee based on what they were told about the company’s production standards?

• Ethical standards . . . . . . . . . $9.71
• Unethical standards. . . . . . . . $5.89
• Control (no information) . . . . . $8.31

Source: WSJ — Does Being Ethical Pay?

Consumers may be willing to purchase unethically produced products, but at a steep discount. A recent survey by BBMG indicated that 35 percent of all Americans have avoided buying a product because of a company’s practices. Return on investment (ROI) in the 21st century is clearly rooted in social and environmental responsibility and the ability of a company to look upstream when making sourcing decisions.

Fair Trade — Supply Chain Transparency

Fair Trade Certification is a market-based model of international trade that benefits over one million farmers and farm workers in developing countries. Fair Trade products have experienced consistent global growth in the 40 percent range over the last few years, making Fair Trade good for business.

The roots of Fair Trade can be traced back to churches in North America and Europe in the late 1940s. The goal of these organizations was to provide relief to refugees and other poverty-stricken communities by selling their handicrafts to Northern markets. In the U.S., Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), such as Ten Thousand Villages and Equal Exchange, purchase from worker-owned cooperatives. The ATOs were formed to import Fair Trade crafts and coffee to the U.S. market.

In 1988, world coffee prices began a sharp decline, The Netherlands’ Max Havelar offered the mainstream coffee industry the first standardized system of Fair Trade criteria. Currently, Fairtrade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) is the “umbrella organization” that establishes Fair Trade standards globally for the industry using a multi-stakeholder process.

Fair Trade standards require sustainable farming techniques and offer further price premiums for organic production, but Fair Trade certification does not guarantee that a product was organically grown. Where farmers are not certified organic, they are required to implement a system of integrated crop management (ICM). FLO stiuplates that the International Labor Organization’s (ILO) conventions be followed.

One hundred million people around the world rely on cotton for their livelihoods. Fairtrade certified cotton carrying the FAIRTRADE Mark was launched in April 2005. Countries and producers receiving certification for cotton include farmers in India, Mali, Peru, and Senegal, Burkina Faso, and Egypt. Pakistan and Brazil will follow in the near future.

Note: Under the FAIRTRADE Mark it is only the cotton that is certified Fairtrade, not the yarn, fabric, or garment. Therefore, a product can only be referred to as Fairtrade Cotton NOT for example a Fairtrade Cotton shirt. The label must read: “Made with FAIRTRADE Certified Cotton.” Currently The United Nations “Least Developed” Countries are the only countries eligible for Fair Trade Certification.

The term Fair Trade is sometimes used interchangeably with Ethical Trading. Ethical Trading refers to organizations. The FAIRTRADE Mark, applies to products rather than organizations.

Walmart — Increasing Social and Environmental Global Supply Chain Standards

Walmart Stores, Inc., recently announced in Beijing, China, that the company will focus on taking a number of steps to strengthen and enforce supplier compliance with rigorous social and environmental standards, including the creation of a new supplier agreement and scorecards that will require factories to certify compliance with laws and regulations where they operate.

The agreement will be phased in beginning with suppliers in China in January 2009. It will expand to suppliers globally by 2011. In terms of supply chain transparency, by 2009, Walmart will require all direct import suppliers plus all suppliers of private label and non-branded products to provide the name and location of every factory they use to make the products it sells. The company will also instruct all suppliers it buys from directly to source 95 percent of their production from factories that meet the company’s highest ratings on social and environmental practices by 2012.

Looking Forward

Organizations not communicating their social and environmental practices and progress may lose out to their competitors that do. Here are some steps you can take:

1. Not only understand but be responsible for improving your product’s life cycle. To better understand where you can improve your performance both economically, socially, and environmentally, consider Lifecycle assessments (LCA.) Reach out to NGOs and subject matter experts to support this process.
   

2. Develop and choose products that can be authenticated to the source. Strive to use independent third-party certification or accredited standards (e.g. Organic, Fair Trade).
   

3. Educate your organization, consumers, and investors. Focus on energy saved, waste reduced, pollutants eliminated, and protection of workers’ rights. Be prepared to link to a source that can authenticate all of the above statements and tell the whole story across the supply chain. Note both the successes and the areas for improvement. Supply chain transparency is the new business and marketing model.
   

4. Many view social and environmental sustainability as the competitive advantage to the slowing economy. Organizations that can adapt quickly to the current troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain could lead us to not only cost savings but a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.
   

5. Keep your eye on the future and horizon issues. Plan now. Should consumers opt to buy less, how will this affect your business model? Will you be offering more services to offset the lower product sales?

Economic success in the 21st century will be measured and led by brands and retailers that can successfully create long-term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by creating products, processes, and services that consider the environmental and social impacts of their supply chains.

Adidas Stores Display Green Duds on Paper Hangers

Original post here at Sustainable Life Media

March 24, 2009 - Adidas stores selling the company's new SVLR sustainable sportswear line are presenting their wares on recycled-content, 100% recyclable paper hangers made by Ditto, a green industrial design firm.

Adidas' SLVR clothing line features sustainable cotton, soybean-based fabric, and resource-efficient designs such as the "Zero Waste T," a t-shirt constructed from one piece of fabric with a single seam. But "green in the clothing industry isn't just about using bamboo fabrics or organic cottons or recycled denim," Adidas said in a statement. "It's also about how the clothing is presented to the customer."

Adidas collaborated with Ditto on the design for the new Ziggurat Paper Hanger, made of layered and highly compressed paperboard. The hanger has earned an International SPARKS Award for innovation in industrial design.

Adidas recently opened SVLR stores in New York and Paris and says it plans to introduce the line in other major cities later this year.

Cradle to Cradle offers certificate for textiles

Original post here on EcoTextileNews: Cradle to Cradle offers new ingredient certificate

CHARLOTTESVILLE – [04.02.09] Cradle to Cradle, the ecological certificate developed by the McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry (MBDC) consultancy has introduced a new ‘approved ingredient’ element to its programme, which can be applicable to textiles and clothing.

The new Approved Ingredient certification programme assesses the sustainability of product ingredients for human and environmental health, as well as their recyclability or compostability. “The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient certification makes it easier at the design stage to create ecologically-intelligent products by choosing materials that meet key sustainability criteria for material health and material reutilisation” said Jay Bolus, Vice President of Technical Operations for MBDC. “We invite material manufacturers to gain this designation and let their customers know about this as they qualify.”

The Cradle to Cradle Approved Ingredient designation is the second certification program developed by MBDC, which initially set out to identify end-products that met a series of environmental criteria with four levels of attainment, each requiring a higher achievement: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum.

MBDC‘s Ingredient certification is open to all manufacturers that make chemicals, materials or substances used in finished goods. Material assessments are conducted by an in-house team of scientists and project managers.

Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications

Will Sustainability Feel the Squeeze?

EcoTextileNews Cover Story-November 2008 issue

by Coral Rose

As a result of the U.S. credit crunch and slowing economy, we are now seeing consumers including, ethical consumers become more economically conscious. What remains to be seen is how, if and when this might affect the solid upward trend of organic and sustainable fibers and products.

The Lenzing Group recently released results for the first half of 2008. With noted strong sales increases of 17.4%, they may be the first to acknowledge a shift in the market; “First signs of a weakening global fiber market were perceptible already from the beginning of the second quarter.”  And “The unfavorable economic development that started in the USA clouds expectations for the global economy. The weak dollar and turbulent raw material and energy markets will add further pressure”

In a global economy, U.S. issues are global issues. There are now concerns that the U.S. credit crisis is spreading to Europe and quickly becoming a global economic hurtle.

“In the short run, I hear people saying that we won’t have the resources to address sustainability now that we’re spending a trillion rescuing the financial system.  That seems backwards.  We need to address climate change and resource shortages even more aggressively.  It’s about risk management.  The leaner we are, the less stuff we use to make every product and service, the better prepared we are for whatever comes our way.” Andrew Winston, Founder of Eco-Strategies, and Co-Author Green to Gold.

We have witnessed decades of widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living for millions of people, around the world rise to unprecedented levels.  As China and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and social issues as well.

Our planet now supports 6.5 billion people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some might assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or sustain economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who will live on this planet by 2050.

“In many ways, the credit crunch is the epitome of non-sustainability. Observing this crisis, you can study the consequences of non-sustainable (economic) actions that - in the end - will affect people, in other words the social/societal dimension of sustainability. For us this development strengthens the conviction that sustainable management is the only way of succeeding in the long run and we will continue to focus on sustainability in all respects." Friedrich Weninger, Vice-President, Lenzing AG. 

In the coming months, we will invariably see organizations implementing mid-course short term adjustments to their long term strategies. Some consider this the opportunity of the 21^st Century; to bring fresh ideas, knowledge, collaborative resources and innovation together in ways that link sustainability, with opportunities for sustainable economic growth. 

David Basson, President of Greensource Organic Company, views sustainability as “the competitive advantage to the slowing economy.”  “Sustainability is front and center on consumer’s minds right now, with high energy costs being a primary focus of the current Presidential elections.”

“We are seeing a tighter economy; consumers are looking for value and shopping at stores that they had not previously frequented.”  He noted a recent trip where he observed many high - end cars in a Walmart parking lot, he sees this as an enormous opportunity for Mass Market retailers.

While the current economic slowdown is not affecting Greensource fiber strategies, David Basson noted that pricing is still a large factor. As a vertical supplier he stressed the importance of long term relationships in his supply chain, as being “key to being able to service his customers through any economic challenges that may occur.”

Brian Powell, Director Sales & Operations-West for YKK USA, is optimistic about sustainability for the YKK brand. While foreseeing a potential definitive economic ‘downturn’ for the next year to eighteen months, “YKK understands that customers are resilient and will support the brands that can differentiate their product selections bringing added value such as sustainable designs/materials.” YKK is looking long term, and will move forward with sustainability. “YKKs culture is rooted in sustainability, we will continue to invest and build products cradle to cradle from recycled and or organic materials because we believe that profitability is synonymous with being sustainable.”

Patagonia is a brand that has successfully created long term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by considering the environmental and social impacts of their supply chain and products. Levi Straus & Co. recently reported that the current economic slowdown “is not hindering any product initiatives or other work LS&CO is doing in this (sustainability) area.”

"Marc Gunther, Senior Writer Fortune Magazine, who writes about the impact of business on society, with a focus on environmental issues, says “that this turmoil in the capital markets can't be good for the sustainability movement.” however, “if nothing else the economic slowdown is a huge distraction. But this will pass, eventually, and then there is no way that companies, and consumers, are going to be able to ignore sustainability"

"Walmart remains committed to Sustainability," according to Walmart spokeswoman Shannon Frederick; “At Walmart, we believe that being environmentally friendly and running a good business go hand in hand during times of economic prosperity as well as during tough economic times like our customers are currently experiencing. We remain committed to our sustainability-focused goals to be supplied 100% by renewable energy, to create zero waste, and to sell products that sustain our resources and the environment. All along we have said that we believe families should have access to affordable environmentally-friendly products. And we're committed to making sure our customers don't have to choose between a more sustainable product and one they can afford.”

How might the economic slowdown affect consumer purchasing behavior? Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.”  Will we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?

As the impacts of a slowing economy are felt, companies that can adapt quickly to the troubled economy and become focused on the cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased energy efficiency of the supply chain, could lead us to a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that is globalized.

Economically tough times of the past yield us some insight to forthcoming possible actions; Retailers may sharpen margins and work towards leaner inventories; this will trickle down the supply chain. Brands and retailers may be less willing to make long term commitments at least for the short term until the rising economic tide has passed. Consumers will invariably spend less money while at the same time looking for products with added brand value, and consumers will shift to purchasing practical-no frills basics, this includes upcoming holiday gift purchases.

It is clear that companies who can strategize to thrive during this time, will no doubt be well situated for long term sustainable economic development and growth.

Copyright(C) 2008 Mowbry Communications Limited

Sustainable Textile Definitions and Fiber Glossary

By
Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt-Professor of Textiles Texas State University and
Coral Rose, Founder Eco-Innovations Sustainable Textile Strategies

Biobased: Biobased processes use naturally occurring organisms or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable methods.

Biobased Fiber: Fiber that is derived from plants and processed using naturally occurring organisms or enzymes. Biobased manufacturing processes generate by-products that are not hazardous, and that can be reused and/or are disposed of through biodegradable methods.

Certified Humane: The Certified Humane Raised and Handled® program is a certification and labeling program that is the only animal welfare label requiring the humane treatment of farm animals from birth through slaughter.  The goal of the program is to improve the lives of farm animals by driving consumer demand for kinder and more responsible farm animal practices. These animals are allowed to engage in their natural behaviors; raised with sufficient space, shelter and gentle handling to limit stress, given ample fresh water and a healthy diet without added antibiotics or hormones. Note: Not all "humane" label claims are regulated.

Conventionally Produced: An agricultural product that is not certified as having been produced using organic or sustainable methods. Potentially toxic chemicals such as herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers are commonly used in the agricultural processes.

Dyes (Low Impact): Dyes that contain no metals, low salt, and are AZO & dioxazines compound free. Low impact dyes require significantly less water for the dyeing process so there is less polluted runoff than from the conventional dye process. Organic cotton and most other fabrics can be successfully colored with fiber-reactive low impact dyes or all natural dyes such as-insects, clay, vegetables, berries, indigo, and other plant extracts.

Dyes (Fiber-Reactive): A color producing compound which has a molecular group capable of forming a covalent bond with atoms on the textile polymers. This bond is very strong which creates good colorfastness and reduces dye run-off during processing or care.

Ethical Trading: Ethical Trading (or sourcing) is a business model that aims to ensure that acceptable minimum labor standards are met in the supply chains of the whole range of companies products. This process ensures the basic labor rights of the employees are respected.

Fair Trade: Fairtrade certification is a market-based model of international trade that benefits over one million farmers and farm workers in over fifty developing countries.

Fairtrade Mark: A product that is produced and traded under Fair Trade conditions as defined by Fairtrade Labeling Organization (FLO) and certified by FLO or one of its member National Initiatives. The Fair Trade Mark certifies individual products and not whole companies.

Fair Trade Principles: Fair Trade Principles Include; Fair Prices, Fair Labor Conditions, Direct Trade, Democratic and Transparent Organizations, Community Development and Environmental Sustainability.

Genetically Modified Organism (GMO): The terms genetically modified (GM) and genetically engineered (GE) are used interchangeably by the industry, concurrently referring to genetic engineering, also known as recombinant DNA technology. GMO’s are genetically modified organisms, i.e. organisms whose DNA has undergone gene insertion. They are also called GEO’s, for genetically engineered organisms. If a GMO is used for food or to produce GM proteins used in food, the ingested product is called GM food. The term Bioengineering is also used to describe genetic engineering.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM): A pest management strategy that focuses on methods that are least injurious to the environment. Pesticides are applied in such a way that they pose the least possible hazard, and are used as a 'last resort' when other controls are inadequate.

Man-Made Fiber: Man made fibers are fibers that have been created by man using building blocks provided by nature e.g. proteins or cellulose as opposed to fibers made entirely by nature e.g. cotton. Man-Made Fibers include; rayon, modal, cupro etc.

Mercerization: A finishing process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, increased strength and decreased shrinkage.

Naturally grown/all-natural: USDA guidelines state that "natural" meat and poultry products can only undergo minimal processing and cannot contain artificial colors, artificial flavors, preservatives, or other artificial ingredients. The claim "natural" is otherwise unregulated.

Organically Produced Fiber: The raw fiber ingredients, such as cotton, flax or wool, have been certified as "Organic" by a USDA accredited certifying agent in accordance with the National Organic Program (NOP) Standards.

Plant-Based Fibers: Plant fibers are produced by plants, and are a product of agriculture. Cotton, Flax and Hemp are examples of Natural fibers grown in nature.

 

Pre-Consumer Recycled Content: Materials generated by manufacturers and processors, and may consist of scrap, trimmings and other by-products that were never used in the consumer market.

Post-Consumer Recycled Content: Post-consumer material is an end product that has completed its life cycle as a consumer item and would otherwise have been disposed of as a solid waste. Post-consumer materials include recyclables collected in commercial and residential recycling programs, such as office paper, cardboard, aluminum cans, plastics and metals.

Predator Friendly: A farming system that seeks coexistence with native predators rather than their elimination. Ranchers who seek certification as predator friendly agree to minimize contact between stock and predators and use non-lethal control methods for dealing with predators.

Recycled Content: The amount of material by weight collected, separated or otherwise recovered from the solid waste stream for use in the form of raw materials, in the manufacture or assembly of a new package or product. Alternative Definition: An item that contains recovered materials. Recovered materials are wastes that have been diverted from conventional disposal such as landfills for another use. Recovered materials include both pre-consumer and post-consumer wastes.

Regenerated: Regenerated means fiber obtained from natural materials that involve a chemical process to convert the natural material e.g. wood into fiber e.g. viscose. Often referred to as man-made as opposed to synthetic.

Transitional Farming Practices: According to the USDA/NOP standards, farmers must practice organic methods for a ‘transitional time period” of three years on a given piece of land prior to receiving organic certification. "Transitional" means that the farmland is in the 'interim' period of that transition period towards organic certification. During that time all practices are certified organic by certifiers accredited by the National Organic Program.

Synthetics: Fabrics that are not from a renewable resource or natural origins. Synthetics include manmade polyesters and polyvinyl fiber derivatives such as Acrylic, Nylon and Spandex that have been synthesized from petroleum and carbon derivatives.

Fiber Glossary

Abaca (Manila): A vegetable leaf fiber derived from the Musa textiles plant, which is resistant to damage from salt water.

Acetate: A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton, linens and/or wood.

Acrylic: A synthetic fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile.

Alpaca: A hair fiber from the Alpaca animal, a member of the llama family of the South American Andes Mountains.

Alpaca (organic): Free roaming, pasture rotation, distribution of the Alpaca’s manure as fertilizer, fed no hormones, no chemical dipping for ticks and parasites, no chemical ingredients are permitted on the land or animals.

Angora: The hair of the Angora rabbit. The clipped fiber from the Angora rabbit is the softest of rabbit hairs.

Acetate: A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton, linens and/or wood.

Bamboo: As one of the fastest growing plants in the world, bamboo grows to its maximum height in about 3 months and reaches maturity in 3-4 years.  It spreads rapidly across large areas. Because of relatively quick growing time and the ability to be grown without fertilizers or pesticides, the fiber is currently being marketed as an ‘eco-green-sustainable fiber.’ There are also claims that viscose or rayon from bamboo is biodegradable and anti-microbial. There are potential risks associated with using bamboo as a polymer source for rayon since there is currently a lack of transparency in the supply chain. It is not always clear which type of bamboo is used for fiber, where it is grown, how it is cultivated, harvested etc. To date there are no known organic certification of bamboo. 

Linen from Bamboo: A mechanical way of producing bamboo by crushing the woody parts of the bamboo plant and then using natural enzymes to break the bamboo walls into a mushy mass so that the natural fibers can be mechanically combed out and spun into yarn. Very little linen from bamboo is currently manufactured for clothing because it is more labor intensive and costly.

Rayon from Bamboo: The process to make viscose or rayon fiber from bamboo is the same process used to produce viscose/ rayon from any other plant source. The cellulose is extracted from the bamboo, and then the cellulose is mixed with chemicals to convert the plant pulp into textile quality fiber. This process can be very polluting unless it is carefully controlled, which can be influenced by the age and condition of the equipment as well as whether there is any by-product recycling or effluent treatment.

Bamboo is not, in and of itself, recognized as a fiber in the US or EU.  What is referred to as bamboo fiber in the market is actually viscose/rayon.

Note: All viscose or rayon fiber from Bamboo (as a source) that is imported into the US must carry a legal fiber content label declaration of viscose or rayon. All bamboo imported into the EU must use of the legal content declaration viscose; the EU does not permit the use of the word rayon. According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) you must label your garments; "Rayon from Bamboo"

Bast fiber: Strong, soft, woody fibers such as flax, jute, hemp, ramie, and bamboo (if the bamboo is a linen fabric) that is obtained from the inner bark of the stems of certain plants. Linen from Bamboo fabric may fall into this category of Bast fiber.

Cinchilla: A cotton, wool, and even synthetic fabric of sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.

Cupro:  Cuprammonium rayon (Cupro or Cupra) is a regenerated cellulosic fiber made from a cellulose source such as cotton linters (waste fibers too small to spin) using a solution including copper sulfate and aqueous ammonia. A fine lustrous fiber that is stronger than Viscose rayon, Cupro is sometimes trademarked Bemberg and is no longer produced in the US.

Eco-fleece: A nubby, soft fabric made from (PET) recycled soda bottles.

Flax: The Linum usitaatissimum plant, used to produce linen.

Hemp: A bast fiber obtained from the stalk of Cannabis sativa that is very hardy and requires minimal agricultural inputs. It can be grown easily without the use of pesticides. Hemp needs fertilizer and may be grown organically.

Jusi Banana Fabric: A fabric that is generally derived from banana leaves, but may also come from silk worm cocoons.

Jute and Burlap: Fiber used in textiles for interiors, consisting of bundles of fiber held together by gummy pectinaceous substances.

Kapok: A short, lightweight, cotton-like, vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree, commonly used in cushions, mattresses, and life jackets.

Kenaf: A bast fiber obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant, used as a substitute for Jute. Kenaf is also suitable for non-wovens.

Lambswool: Wool that is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months.

Latex: Elastic material derived from the Castilla elastica tree, used to provide stretch to fabrics. Synthetic latex is derived from petrochemicals. Natural latex needs the addition of cross linking agents to render it durable and usable in products.

Lenzing Fibers: There is only one case of manufacturing a regenerated cellulose fiber-where the chemicals used in the process are completely recycled  with a recovery rate of 99.5%, this is known as a closed loop system. The fiber made using this closed looped process is Lenzings TENCEL ® Lyocell. More accurately described Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. TENCEL® Lyocell also carries the Oeko Tex 100 certification and FSC certification (http://www.fsc.org/en/) currently organic standards are not in place for certifying regenerated fibers using trees as a source e.g. Eucalyptus, or Beechwood.  FSC certification for TENCEL® Lyocell is for the forest and for the pulp, they also have been awarded the European-Eco flower label. (www.Lenzing.com)

Latex (blended): Also know as Styrene Butadiene Rubber (SBR), is produced with petrochemicals and doesn't not have the resilience properties that 100% natural latex has. In Europe, anything that has at least 20% natural latex is considered natural.

Linen: A fiber derived from the inside the woody stem of the flax plant.

Lycra: A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber.

Mohair: The fiber from the Angora goat, mohair is mainly produced in South Africa and Texas. The long strong, lustrous fibers are clipped annually and are excellent for use in upholstery and carpeting due to their resilience.

Modal: A regenerated cellulosic fiber derived from beechwood.

Nylon: The first completely synthetic fiber, nylon was developed in 1938.

Nytril: A synthetic fiber, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics.

PLA (Poly Lactic Acid polymer): taken from lactic acid produced by fermenting a sugar source such as corn.

Polyester: A petroleum-based, synthesized fiber introduced and widely used in the early 1950s, often spun with cotton.

Polypropylene (also known as polyolefin and Olefin): A synthetic fiber characterized by its light weight, strength, and abrasion resistance, used in activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery.

Ramie: A woody fiber derived from the stalk of Boehmeria species, grown mainly in China.Raime is naturally white, but also brittle.

Rayon: A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or bamboo vegetable matter.

Silk: A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the worm weaves its cocoon. Cultivated silk comes from silkworms raised in production facilities and the worms are killed before leaving the cocoons as moths in order to prevent damage to the cocoons.

"Peace Silk" is silk that is produced from the fibers of a cocoon cut by the adult silkworms as it exists alive, and is considered a more humane option. "Tussah Silk" known for its tan color, is made from cocoons that are harvested in the wild, often after the moths have left the cocoons.

Sisal: A bast fiber derived from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa.

Soy Fiber:  A fiber with a silky feel, the soy fiber is correctly termed "Azlon from Soy"; these protein fibers are produced using the proteins from soy beans. Azlons can also be made with milk proteins or even chicken feathers.

Soy Sunn: A bast fiber derived from the Crotalaria juncea plant.

Synthetic fibers: Are those in which man has produced the entire operation of the fiber production without allowing nature to manufacture the fiber forming substance (called polymers.). Usually synthetics are made from chemicals derived from non-renewable resources such as coal or oil. The most widely recognized synthetics are polyester and nylon. 

Tencel®: A registered trademark of the Lenzing Fibers Group for Lyocell. More accurately described Lyocell is a solvent spun fiber in which the cellulose is directly dissolved keeping the cellulose much closer to that found in nature. The source of the cellulose is Eucalyptus.

Tri-acetate: A manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose.

Wool: A protein fiber usually derived from the fleece of sheep or lambs. The term wool can also be generically applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Viscose: Viscose rayon is the oldest and most commonly produced type of rayon. The fiber labeled "rayon" in the US, but however will likely be labeled "viscose" in Europe. Viscose rayon is absorbent but also has poor wet strength and often requires dry cleaning to retain integrity. Other methods of producing rayon include High Wet Modulus (Modal) which improves wet strength and Cupro.

 

© Copyright: 2007 Coral Rose, Eco Innovations, may not be used without written authorization from co-author Coral Rose.

Will an Economic Slowdown Affect Organic Consumer Purchasing Behavior?

The sales volume of organic products, which had been growing at 20 percent a year in recent years, slowed to a much lower growth rate in the last few months, according to the Nielsen Company, a market research firm.

“Organics continue to grow and outpace many categories,” the Nielsen Company concluded in an October report. “However, recent weeks are showing slower growths, possibly a start of an organics growth plateau.”

For the four-week period that ended Oct. 4, the volume of organic products sold rose just 4 percent compared with the same period a year earlier.

If the slowdown continues, it could have broad implications beyond the organic industry, whose success spawned a growing number of products with values-based marketing claims, from fair trade coffee to hormone-free beef to humanely raised chickens. Nearly all of them command a premium price.

While a group of core customers considers organic or locally produced products a top priority, the growth of recent years was driven by a far larger group of less committed customers. The weak economy is prompting many of them to choose which marketing claim, if any, is really important to them.

Among organic products, those marketed to children will probably continue to thrive because they appeal to parents’ concerns about health, said Laurie Demeritt, the president and chief operating officer of the Hartman Group, a market research firm for the health and wellness industry. But products that do not have as much perceived benefit, like processed foods for adults, may struggle.

Theresa Marquez, the chief marketing executive for Organic Valley, which sells primarily dairy products, said she was not worried about core customers because they were so committed to buying organic.

“I’m not sure the periphery — those that purchase perhaps only four or so times a month — will break the industry,” she said in an e-mail conversation after the convention. “But I am concerned that those periphery customers are important to the growth of the industry and without them, organic growth is sure to go flat.”

Organic Valley’s sales have slowed in the last four months, in part because of price increases, company officials said.

Robert Atallah, the owner of Cedarlane Foods, which makes organic and natural frozen meals, said his business had slowed in the last 18 months, a problem he attributed to increased competition and the economy. He said that he believed a newly developed line of products could help sales but cannot convince buyers for grocery chains to commit.

“The morale of buyers is so low, they don’t want to buy anything,” he said. “It’s a sick feeling all the way around. People don’t know if their job is going to be there.”

But others said they had not yet noticed a slowdown and were optimistic that sales would remain steady — or possibly improve — as consumers ate fewer meals in restaurants and devoted more time to cooking. Some store-brand manufacturers said they were thriving as consumers looked for cheaper alternatives to branded products.

Some others said they were cutting back on organic food to save money.Joni Heard, a 29-year-old mother of two who lives in central Florida, said that in the past she would buy organic milk, cheese and produce but had cut back because it was too expensive. “I’m a stay-at-home mom and my husband — you never know if he’s going to be laid off,” she said in an interview, explaining that her husband works in construction. “I can’t justify spending $2 or $3 more for a single item.”

The shift to “NATURAL”

The Natural Marketing Institute recently reported that consumers state higher purchases of “Natural” versus “Organic” foods and beverages. “This is driven by a wide range of factors; levels of understanding, availability, price, and perceived benefits.” *Note: there is not a USDA Standard with third party certification in place for products with a “Natural” identifier as there is for and “Organic” label.

Will we see this trend from organic to ‘natural’ (sustainable) in the fiber market?

Portions originally posted Here by The New York Times;
Budgets Squeezed, Some Families Bypass Organics

By ANDREW MARTIN

 

Wal-Mart Strengthens Social and Environmental Goals

BEIJING – [10.22.08] Just as the global textile industry has started to question whether its journey towards sustainability can survive in these tough economic times, Wal-Mart has bucked the trend with a series of new goals and expectations to build a more environmentally and socially responsible global supply chain.

Lee Scott, the president and CEO of Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. announced the move at an unprecedented gathering of more than 1,000 leading suppliers, officials and NGOs in Beijing, China. “Sustainability is about building a better business. We think it is essential to our future success as a retailer – and to meeting the expectations of customers,” said Scott, “Maintaining the trust of our customers – today and in the future – is tied hand-in-hand with improving the quality of our supplier factories and their products.”

The company will focus on areas aimed at meeting or exceeding social and environmental standards, driving innovation and efficiency and building stronger partnerships with suppliers, government and NGOs.

As part of a series of new requirements for its suppliers, Wal-Mart is taking a number of steps to further strengthen and enforce supplier compliance with environmental and social standards, including the creation of a new supplier agreement that will require factories to certify compliance with laws and regulations where they operate – as well as rigorous social and environmental standards. The agreement will be phased in beginning with suppliers in China in January 2009 and expanding to suppliers around the world by 2011.

The company has pledged to bring more environmentally sustainable products to its store shelves and says it will partner with suppliers to improve energy efficiency in the top 200 factories it sources from directly in China by 20% by 2012. The company will share information and best practices with all of the factories it sources from as well as its competitors.

In terms of supply chain transparency, by 2009, Wal-Mart will require all direct import suppliers plus all suppliers of private label and non-branded products to provide the name and location of every factory they use to make the products it sells. The company will also have all suppliers it buys from directly to source 95% of their production from factories that receive the highest ratings on environmental and social practices by 2012.

Wal-Mart also announced a major effort to make Wal-Mart China a leader in sustainability in China by committing to make its stores more sustainable. The company will design and open a new store prototype that uses 40% less energy and will reduce energy use at existing stores by 30% by 2010. In addition, during the next two years, Wal-Mart China will aim to cut water use in all of its stores in half by investing in new hardware and systems and developing best practices that will help its associates and stores use water more efficiently.

Scott also sent out a strong socially responsible message to the Chinese manufacturing community: “I firmly believe that a company that cheats on overtime and on the age of its labour, that dumps its scraps and chemicals in our rivers, that does not pay its taxes or honour its contracts – will ultimately cheat on the quality of its products. And cheating on the quality of products is the same as cheating on customers. We will not tolerate that at Wal-Mart.”

The announcements build on Lee Scott‘s ‘Company of the Future’ speech to Wal-Mart store managers in January, 2008 where he pledged to make the company’s operations in China more sustainable and our build a more environmentally and socially responsible global supply.

Original Post: EcoTextileNews Copyright © 2008 Mowbray Communications Ltd 

Route Optimization Saves UPS 3 Million Gallons of Gas

UPS Utilizes SMART Eco-Strategies and the "Lens of Sustainability" to Reap

BIG CONTRIBUTION TO THE BOTTOM LINE.........................

UPS saved three million gallons of gas and 30 million miles driven last year thanks to a fleet of computer programs geared toward shaving the distance its packages travel before reaching their destination, according to the company's 2007 sustainability report.

The company uses specially designed routing hardware and software, known collectively as Package Flow Technology, to streamline delivery routes and improve fuel efficiency.

UPS also employs telematics - electronically gathering data on its vehicle fleet as well as drivers' performance - to identify new ways to boost fuel efficiency.

These technologies have helped UPS develop policies such as minimizing the number of left turns drivers take, thus lowering their idle time while waiting for oncoming traffic to pass.

Such measures have contributed to the company reducing their emissions by 32,000 metric tons in 2007.

UPS has also introduced low-carbon vehicles into its U.S. and Canadian fleets. The company currently employs over 2,000 green vehicles, including hybrid and compressed natural gas trucks.

To download UPS's 2007 sustainability report, click here (PDF).

note; 3 million gallons of gas X a (low) estimate of $3.50 a gallon is a COOL $10.5 MILLION DOLLARS!!!!!!

Paper; Seeing the Forest Through the Trees

Getting Clear On What to Look for in PAPER PRODUCTS

 

All the problems associated with paper are predicted to grow even faster in the near future, as developing countries increase their use of paper and other wood products. Our forest footprint--the amount of forested area that humans use to meet their forest-product needs--has grown by 50 percent since the early 1960s, and experts predict a 50 percent increase in the world's paper consumption by 2010. Computer use has not produced a hoped-for reduction in paper consumption: Personal computers print out a global total of 115 billion pounds of paper each year, and the average U.S. consumer uses more than 700 pounds of paper every year--twice the European average.

Fiber Content

Recycled Paper
Recycling saves trees and forest ecosystems, sequesters the heavy metals in inks and keeps them out of the general waste stream, saves landfill space, produces jobs, saves water and energy, and generates far fewer greenhouse gases than virgin paper production. Purchasers of recycled paper help create a market for recycled paper and incentives for the recovery of paper; the percentage of office paper currently recycled in the U.S. is a pitiful 20 percent.

Recycling skeptics often claim that paper recycling involves toxic solvents and detergents, but newer de-inking systems, now widespread in the industry, have eliminated these troublesome substances.

Look for the following labels on recycled paper:

% Post-Consumer Waste (PCW): This phrase defines what percentage of a paper is derived from consumer-generated paper that has been recycled from the solid waste stream. This is the most efficient reuse of paper, and as a rule of thumb consumers should seek out the maximum percentage of post-consumer content, as opposed to "pre-consumer" paper, which involves mill wastes and scraps.

% Recycled: This term indicates that a paper contains the specified percentage of all recycled material, including along both pre- and post-consumer content.

Alternative Fibers
Tree-free paper is available made from a variety of substances, including flax and linen, tobacco leaf, agricultural stalks and straws, bamboo, coffee-bean residue, esparto grass, seaweed, bagasse (leftover sugarcane stalks), old money, old clothing and ground junk-mail. These fibers also can be combined with paper made from wood pulp and recycled even further. Currently, the chief tree-free papers include:

Kenaf: A relative of hibiscus and cotton, kenaf is an annual plant that produces more than twice the amount of fiber per acre as a pine forest. It requires few pesticides and herbicides and is naturally whiter than wood pulp--requiring, therefore, less bleaching.

Cotton: Sources are rags, old clothes and blue jeans, and waste cotton from cotton mills. Fortunately, most paper efficiently uses industrial by-products and post-consumer waste that would otherwise be garbage. At least one company, Green Fields, makes organic cotton paper products.

Hemp: Hemp produces excellent fibers for paper--at least twice as much fiber as pine. It requires few chemicals to grow and, like kenaf, is naturally lighter in color than wood pulp.

Bleaching Process

Chlorine-free paper processing uses less than one tenth as much water, according to the Chlorine Free Products Association. Look for paper bearing the following CFPA certifications:

TCF: Totally Chlorine Free, for virgin (non-recycled) paper that is unbleached or processed without the use of chlorine or chlorine derivatives

PCF: Processed Chlorine Free, for recycled paper in which the recycled content is not further bleached with chlorine or chlorine derivatives; any virgin material portion of the paper must be TCF.

ECF: Elemental Chlorine Free, for paper bleached with a chlorine derivative, such as chlorine dioxide; ECF reduces emissions compared to chlorine gas, but still produces dioxins, furans, and other organochlorines as by-products. PCF and TCF are much preferable.

Third Party Certifications

Green Seal is an independent, non-profit organization that strives to achieve a healthier and cleaner environment by identifying and promoting products and services that cause less toxic pollution and waste, conserve resources and habitats, and minimize global warming and ozone depletion. Green Seal both recommends paper products that meet its criteria, and certifies paper products when manufacturers submit to inspections to verify their production processes.

The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) can certify that the pulp used to make paper originates from well-managed forests with intact, healthy ecosystems.

Original post here
@ the green guide