This Brochure is a Collaboration of:
Dr. Gwendolyn Hustvedt, Texas State University‐San Marcos
and
Coral Rose, Eco‐Innovations Sustainable Textile Services
University of Arkansas-Sustainability Education
Categories
- About Bamboo
- About Hemp
- About Lenzing Modal & TENCEL (r)
- About Linen-Flax
- About Organic Cotton
- About Organic Wool
- About Recycled Fibers
- About Standards, Certification, Labeling
- About Sustainable Fibers
- Beyond Fibers; Dyes, Finishes,Trims and Packaging
- Climate Change and Textiles
- Cotton vs. Polyester
- Current Affairs
- Eco-Education
- Fair Trade
- Federal Trade Commission-FTC Environmental Marketing and Labeling Guidelines
- Genetic Engineering
- Organic Food
- Personal Care
- Resources: Helpful Sustainability Resources
- Social Responsibility
- Sustainable Textiles Definitions
Eco-Blogs
Eco-Dictionary
Eco-Textiles
October 30, 2009
September 01, 2009
You Can Have Your Bamboo and Eat it Too--"Rayon Made From Organic Bamboo"
by Coral Rose
The FTC recently
charged four textile companies with making false unsubstantiated “green” claims.
According to the FTC these companies were deceptively labeling and advertising
textile related items as made of ‘bamboo’ fiber, when they are made of rayon, and must legally be labeled "Rayon made from bamboo."
The question has again been raised......
"Can bamboo(technically "Rayon from bamboo") textiles be certified organic to the USDA National Organic Program (NOP)?"
The last time this question was posed a few years ago, I was informed that bamboo was considered a product of a forest and therefore could possibly be eligible for FSC Certification.
Given the existing controversy that is still running wild in the textile market, I decided to again reach out to the USDA NOP for clarification. I received the following response:
According to Joan Shaffer,
Office of Public Affairs at the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) “Bamboo” as a raw material for textiles is available for
Organic Certification according to the USDA NOP.
“The organic standards cover
agricultural products from livestock and crop. Bamboo is a crop.” Please see the explanations for textiles in this (Labeling of Textiles Under National Organic
Program (NOP) Regulations) fact sheet.”
“Below is an excerpt from the “Preamble” on “nonedible
fibers products” in the organic standards.”
“(6) Nonedible Fibers Products in the NOP. Some
commenters asked the NOP to clarify the certification status of fibers such as
cotton and flax. The final rule allows for certification of organically
produced fibers such as cotton and flax. However, the processing of these
fibers is not covered by the final rule. Therefore, goods that utilize organic
fibers in their manufacture may only be labeled as a "made with..."
product; e.g., a cotton shirt labeled "made with organic cotton." USDA-AMS Office of Public Affairs
The proper labeling in accordance with the FTC would be:
“Rayon(or Viscose) made from organic bamboo”
*Note that it is the bamboo itself as the CROP (raw material) that
is allowed to be certified as organic to the USDA NOP Standard, and
that the processing of the fiber and or garment is NOT considered in
the process of certification to the USDA NOP Standard.
While this may sound a bit absurd (and about as clean as coal) that rayon can indeed be considered an organic
textile, it is the bamboo itself as the raw material that is being certified as
organic.
***See August 1, 2009 Post below: Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)
First Clean Coal, Now Organic Bamboo? by Coral Rose
August 11, 2009
FTC Charges Companies with 'Bamboo-zling' Consumers with False Product Claims
Bamboo-based Textiles, Actually Made of Rayon, Are Not Antimicrobial, Made in an Environmentally Friendly Manner, or Biodegradable
Note from Coral Rose: After much hard work and effort, THE FTC is to be congratulated on bringing integrity back to the Eco-Textile Market.
Press Release 8/11/09:
The Federal Trade Commission has charged four sellers of clothing and other
textile products with deceptively labeling and advertising these items as made
of bamboo fiber, when they are made of rayon. The complaints also charge the
companies with making false and unsubstantiated “green” claims that their
clothing and textile products are manufactured using an environmentally friendly
process, that they retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the bamboo
plant, and that they are biodegradable.
“With the tremendous expansion of green claims in today’s marketplace, it is particularly important for the FTC to address deceptive environmental claims, so that consumers can trust that the products they buy have the environmentally friendly attributes they want,” said David Vladeck, Director of the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection. “When companies sell products woven from man-made fibers, such as rayon, it is important that they accurately label and advertise those products – both with respect to the fibers they use and to the qualities those fibers possess.”
FTC ALERT: HAVE YOU BEEN BAMBOOZLED BY BAMBOO FABRICS
FTC BUSINESS ALERT: HOW TO AVOID BAMBOOZLING YOUR CUSTOMERS
For the entire Press Release Use this FTC Website link
August 01, 2009
Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)
Original Post 8.08
Labeling of Textiles: National Organic Program (NOP)
USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural
products through its
National Organic Program (NOP) regulation, 7 CFR Part 205.
● Raw natural fibers,
such as cotton, wool ,flax, etc., are agricultural products and
are covered under the NOP
crop/livestock production standards. Off-farm treatment of
raw organic fibers are not
covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards.
● Although the NOP has no
specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing
standards, it may be
possible for fi bers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards
to be processed and
manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP
standards.
Labeling
for Certified Handling/Processing/ Manufacturing Operations
Only textile products
certified to the NOP production AND processing standards are eligible to be
labeled
“100 percent organic” and “organic.”
100 percent organic
● 100 percent organic fiber
content.
● Only organic processing
aids.
● USDA Organic seal may be
displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to
certified products only.
● All operations
producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be
certified.
Organic
● Minimum of 95 percent
organic fiber content.
● 5 percent nonorganic
substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP
regulation.
● No non-organic fibers.
● USDA Organic seal may be
displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail
displays—in proximity to
certified products only.
● All operations
producing, handling, processing,and manufacturing the final
product must be certified.
Other
Uses of the Word “Organic” in Textile Product Labeling
The NOP does not restrict
the use of the term “made with organic …” in the labeling of textile products
to
only those products
manufactured in certified organic facilities or containing a minimum of 70
percent
organic fibers. However,
all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced
and
certified to NOP
standards.
Labels on textile products from non-certified handling/processing/manufacturing
operations:
● May identify specific fibers
as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.
● May state the percentage
of organic fibers contained in the final product.
● May not use the USDA
Organic seal.
● May not imply or lead
the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic
Other
Labeling Laws
● NOP label requirements
are in addition to those required by the Federal Trade
Commission’s (FTC) Textile
and Wool Acts.
● Information on FTC labeling requirements for textiles can be found at the following websites:
Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements of The Textile and Wool Acts
July 09, 2009
Better cotton threading its way towards global markets
Gland,
Switzerland: The
first batch of sustainable cotton – to be produced with a fraction of the water
and pesticide use of traditional cotton cultivation – is expected to reach
global markets starting next year.
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a partnership between major corporations
such as Adidas, IKEA, Gap, and H&M, and NGOs such as WWF, recently created
a new set of criteria to make cotton cultivation more economically,
environmentally, and socially sustainable.
The Better Cotton System outlines mechanisms to mitigate the negative impacts
of one of the world’s most water and chemical crops, which is often grown in
semi-arid and water scarce areas.
Cotton cultivation covers more than 2.4 percent of global arable land,
involving about 30 million farmers. Cotton is produced in more than 65
countries worldwide, mainly in the developing world.
“The Better Cotton Initiative aims to make global cotton production better for
the people who produce it and better for the environment it grows in” said
Walter Wagner, WWF Switzerland, newly elected vice-chair of the BCI.
Pilot projects are slated to test the BCI system in Pakistan, India, Africa,
and Brazil to provide sustainable cotton to textile makers and buyers starting
next year. For example, the initiative aims to reduce water and pesticide use.
Projects underway in Pakistan and India led by WWF and IKEA have led to 75
percent reduction in water and pesticide use, while increase the net revenue to
cotton producers by 70 percent.
“BCI endeavors to initiate global change in the mass market, with long-term
benefits for the environment, farmers and other people dependent on cotton for
their livelihood,” according to its website.
Original post here: World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Panda.org
June 24, 2009
Green Recovery: Get Lean, Get Smart, and Emerge from the Downturn on Top
Green Recovery,
written by Green to Gold
author Andrew Winston, explains why making environmentally sound decisions is a
must in tough times, and offers a step-by-step guide to making green thinking
an easy and lucrative part of your company's recovery strategy.
Based on Green Recovery, "Green Cost Cutting" outlines the five key ways every business can use eco-friendly business practices to start saving money right now.
Andrew’s book is expected to be available in August.
You can download a core chapter of the book here. Green Recovery
May 01, 2009
The (r)evolution of textiles:
From the Industrial Revolution to the Chemical Revolution to the
Green Revolution.
Check out Harmony Art's the (r)evolution of textiles.
April 13, 2009
Looking Upstream: A New View of 21st Century Business Practices
By Coral Rose
Original post here:The University of Delaware's online FIBER JOURNAL publication
We have witnessed decades of
widespread global economic growth, in which we have seen the standard of living
for millions of people around the world rise to unprecedented levels. As China
and India enter the age of consumerism, global economic development is linked
not only to the core practices of business, but that of environmental and
social issues as well.
Our planet now supports 6.5 billion
people. We are adding to that, about 70 million people each year. Some may
assert that the current global economic business model cannot support or
sustain social and economic progress for the projected 8 billion people who
will live on this planet by 2050.
In the world of globalization,
fundamentally social and environmental issues are business issues and are
inseparable from one another.
According to a recent poll conducted
by the Global Strategy Group, 87 percent of consumers are more likely to buy
products from a retailer that is committed to environmentally sound practices.
With increased awareness, the
concern for many companies becomes how to achieve the maximum economic benefit
from environmentally and socially responsible products and practices while at
the same time increasing shareholder value and increasing stakeholder trust.
Hidden from our View
Today, the majority of products’
social and environmental impacts are hidden from our view — that is, the
effects of a product’s social and environmental impacts (life cycle) before it
hits the shelves and consumers’ hands. The average designer to purchasing agent
(consumers as well) is unaware of the global impacts of their decisions. Hidden
from their sight is what lies upstream; all the impacts of growing, processing,
manufacturing and transporting raw materials and component parts.
Twentieth-century business practices have taught these professionals to focus
only on what is downstream (production to consumer).
In the United States in 1960, we
were generating 2.7 pounds of waste per person per day. In 2006, that number is
4.6 pounds of waste per person per day. By the time that waste fills one
garbage can, 70 garbage cans of waste was created upstream to make the stuff that
is now going to the landfill.
To begin to create an accurate
picture of what and who are upstream and to make informed decisions about what
actions we will take downstream, we must begin to ask: What is the source of
our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced? And
who and what (people-animals-environment) in the supply chain is affected by
the harvesting, processing, and production of our products?
Considering all the social and
environmental impacts from harvest/processing to waste/reuse is a total mindset
shift at the product design and creation level and a key component to
sustainable economic development strategies.
Supply chain transparency is one of
the basic tenents or “rules of engagement” for any 21st-century business model.
Ethical Consumerism
Ethical consumerism is on the rise.
It’s a movement based on purchasing products that have been ethically produced
by organizations that are involved in a process of ensuring that the basic
labor rights of the employees of their Third World suppliers are respected.
According to a recent study reported
by the Wall Street Journal, companies that embrace more ethical
production practices (social and environmental) that are third-party certified,
may produce larger profit margins.
What are consumers willing to pay
for a pound of coffee based on what they were told about the company’s
production standards?
- Ethical standards . . . . . . . . . $9.71
- Unethical standards. . . . . . . . $5.89
- Control (no information) . . . . . $8.31
Source: WSJ — Does Being Ethical Pay?
Consumers may be willing to purchase
unethically produced products, but at a steep discount. A recent survey by BBMG
indicated that 35 percent of all Americans have avoided buying a product
because of a company’s practices. Return on investment (ROI) in the 21st
century is clearly rooted in social and environmental responsibility and the
ability of a company to look upstream when making sourcing decisions.
Fair Trade — Supply Chain Transparency
Fair Trade Certification is a
market-based model of international trade that benefits over one million
farmers and farm workers in developing countries. Fair Trade products have
experienced consistent global growth in the 40 percent range over the last few
years, making Fair Trade good for business.
The roots of Fair Trade can be
traced back to churches in North America and Europe in the late 1940s. The goal
of these organizations was to provide relief to refugees and other
poverty-stricken communities by selling their handicrafts to Northern markets.
In the U.S., Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs), such as Ten Thousand
Villages and Equal Exchange, purchase from worker-owned cooperatives. The ATOs
were formed to import Fair Trade crafts and coffee to the U.S. market.
In 1988, world coffee prices began a
sharp decline, The Netherlands’ Max Havelar offered the mainstream coffee
industry the first standardized system of Fair Trade criteria. Currently,
Fairtrade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) is the “umbrella
organization” that establishes Fair Trade standards globally for the industry
using a multi-stakeholder process.
Fair Trade standards require
sustainable farming techniques and offer further price premiums for organic
production, but Fair Trade certification does not guarantee that a product was
organically grown. Where farmers are not certified organic, they are required
to implement a system of integrated crop management (ICM). FLO stiuplates that
the International Labor Organization’s (ILO) conventions be followed.
One hundred million people around
the world rely on cotton for their livelihoods. Fairtrade certified cotton
carrying the FAIRTRADE Mark was launched in April 2005. Countries and producers
receiving certification for cotton include farmers in India, Mali, Peru, and
Senegal, Burkina Faso, and Egypt. Pakistan and Brazil will follow in the near
future.
Note: Under the FAIRTRADE Mark it is only the cotton that is
certified Fairtrade, not the yarn, fabric, or garment. Therefore, a product can
only be referred to as Fairtrade Cotton NOT for example a Fairtrade Cotton
shirt. The label must read: “Made with FAIRTRADE Certified Cotton.”
Currently The United Nations “Least Developed” Countries are the only countries
eligible for Fair Trade Certification.
The term Fair Trade is
sometimes used interchangeably with Ethical Trading. Ethical Trading
refers to organizations. The FAIRTRADE Mark, applies to products
rather than organizations.
Walmart — Increasing Social and
Environmental Global Supply Chain Standards
Walmart Stores, Inc., recently
announced in Beijing, China, that the company will focus on taking a number of
steps to strengthen and enforce supplier compliance with rigorous social and
environmental standards, including the creation of a new supplier agreement and
scorecards that will require factories to certify compliance with laws and
regulations where they operate.
The agreement will be phased in
beginning with suppliers in China in January 2009. It will expand to suppliers
globally by 2011. In terms of supply chain transparency, by 2009, Walmart will
require all direct import suppliers plus all suppliers of private label and
non-branded products to provide the name and location of every factory they use
to make the products it sells. The company will also instruct all suppliers it
buys from directly to source 95 percent of their production from factories that
meet the company’s highest ratings on social and environmental practices by
2012.
Looking Forward
Organizations not communicating
their social and environmental practices and progress may lose out to their
competitors that do. Here are some steps you can take:
- Not only understand but be responsible for improving
your product’s life cycle. To better understand where you can improve your
performance both economically, socially, and environmentally, consider
Lifecycle assessments (LCA.) Reach out to NGOs and subject matter experts
to support this process.
- Develop and choose products that can be authenticated
to the source. Strive to use independent third-party certification or
accredited standards (e.g. Organic, Fair Trade).
- Educate your organization, consumers, and investors.
Focus on energy saved, waste reduced, pollutants eliminated, and
protection of workers’ rights. Be prepared to link to a source that can
authenticate all of the above statements and tell the whole story across
the supply chain. Note both the successes and the areas for improvement.
Supply chain transparency is the new business and marketing model.
- Many view social and environmental sustainability as
the competitive advantage to the slowing economy. Organizations that can
adapt quickly to the current troubled economy and become focused on the
cost savings of sustainable business practices may be the ones to deliver
a return on investment in tough times. Cost savings derived from increased
energy efficiency of the supply chain could lead us to not only cost
savings but a more localized and regionalized supply chain versus one that
is globalized.
- Keep your eye on the future and horizon issues. Plan
now. Should consumers opt to buy less, how will this affect your business
model? Will you be offering more services to offset the lower product
sales?
Economic success in the 21st century
will be measured and led by brands and retailers that can successfully create
long-term brand value and stakeholder loyalty by creating products, processes,
and services that consider the environmental and social impacts of their supply
chains.
April 10, 2009
Sustainability Leadership: An Interview with Coral Rose
You can find the original interview here; "Focus Sustainability" 2008; a comprehensive report by Lenzing Fibers.
Coral Rose, expert on Sustainable Textiles, talks about her views on sustainability in the 21st century.
What do
you think about Lenzing’s achievements in sustainable management
and
which aspects do you consider to be most essential according to your
experience?
Sustainable innovation is the key
economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets or “rules
of engagement” for any sustainable business.
Lenzing offers the fiber market what
few, if any, producers of fibers do, and that is both sustainable innovation and full
transparency of the supply chain. One of the most important global issues is “what is the source
of our raw materials? Where were the materials harvested, processed, produced?” This
is a total mindset shift at the textile design level.
Do you
think that the communication of the Lenzing Botanic Principles has been
well
received by the important players in the market?
Lenzing’s Botanic Principles lead us
back to the source of life on the planet, back to nature. They enhance the education of
the market by applying these simple, yet easy to- understand principles. Botanic
Principles connect the lifecycle of nature and sustainability to fiber innovation.
Nature and sustainability are not separable.
I strongly believe Lenzing’s products
are a key component to any sustainable fiber strategy, when considering all the
environmental impacts associated with fiber growing and production. Lenzing
Modal® and TENCEL ® come out on top – practical, applicable and economically
viable to integrate into fiber strategies of
most global organizations.
In
which segments of the industry do you feel Lenzing innovations have been most
visible?
Lenzing places a high priority not only on supply chain transparency and disclosure, but also continual improvement and ongoing research and improvements of their products. Their innovations are especially vital to the activewear market as options to replace high-performance petrol based products, while maintaining quality fiber performance and economical viability. Many activewear brands are also struggling with finding sustainable options for organic cotton as their customers require garments that have excellent moisture management. Lenzing’s fibers offer the market sustainable fiber performance solutions.
Apart
from the more product related aspects, how would you rate the importance of the
more general social and environmental issues in the supply chain? Are customers
prepared to pay
premiums for outstanding performance in these fields?
Fundamentally, social and
environmental issues are business issues, and this concept is part of the core
foundational principles at Lenzing. “People, Planet, Profit” is often used to
describe the triple bottom line and the goal of
sustainability. The fact is that they are all connected and should be thought
of in one globally accepted conversation. Lenzing does just that.
Human rights and environmental
stewardship are inextricably linked. Everybody has the right to a secure,
healthy and ecologically sound environment. We have also seen a huge market
shift to fair trade products, from coffee to cotton, in the last few years.
This is a positive sign that the brands and consumers are willing to pay extra
to ensure that farmers and producers are able to live sustainably.
Lenzing sets very high benchmarks,
where other fiber producers should aspire to. It is a key valued fiber partner
and regards partnerships with the market to be very important. I recently
toured the Modal facility in Lenzing, Austria, and was impressed with the closed
loop system in place and accountability for all inputs and outputs. note;
Believe it or not-that is a picture (above) of the Lenzing facility in
Lenzing, Austria--right out of the "Sound of Music" in fact the Sound
of Music was filmed on the bluff this picture was taken from!!!!!
“Sustainable innovation is the key economic driver of the 21st century. Supply chain transparency is one of the basic tenets for any sustainable business.” Coral Rose
March 25, 2009
Adidas Stores Display Green Duds on Paper Hangers
Original post here at Sustainable Life Media
March
24, 2009 - Adidas stores selling the company's new SVLR sustainable sportswear
line are presenting their wares on recycled-content, 100% recyclable paper
hangers made by Ditto, a green industrial design firm.
Adidas'
SLVR clothing line features sustainable cotton, soybean-based fabric, and
resource-efficient designs such as the "Zero Waste T," a t-shirt
constructed from one piece of fabric with a single seam. But "green in the
clothing industry isn't just about using bamboo fabrics or organic cottons or
recycled denim," Adidas said in a statement. "It's also about how the
clothing is presented to the customer."
Adidas collaborated with Ditto on the
design for the new Ziggurat Paper Hanger, made of layered and highly compressed
paperboard. The hanger has earned an International SPARKS Award for innovation
in industrial design.
Adidas recently opened SVLR stores in New York and Paris and says it plans to introduce the line in other major cities later this year.
